Damper pulley nut size

Clyde · Post by **Clyde** » Wed Apr 19, 2006 8:31 am

Changing the timing belt on a 1978 Fiat Spider 124. What size is the nut that holds the damper pulley on? I don't have that size, of course, and don't want to buy 3 to get 1. Thanks

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Wed Apr 19, 2006 11:26 am

1 1/2" or 38mm

josh76 · Post by **josh76** » Sun Apr 23, 2006 12:21 pm

isn't it actually a 37mm nut?

Although it seems no one makes a socket in that size
so the 38mm or 1.5in works fine

Bill Pottle · Post by **Bill Pottle** » Mon Apr 24, 2006 12:01 pm

So Cal Mark is right a 1 1/2" works. I Just removed and changed my timing belt and used 1.5" socket and it worked perfectly (thanks to liberal coatings of Liguid Wrench). I tried to buy a 38mm socket and I couldn't get one easily.

One tip the tensioner spring nut that holds the rear timing cover does NOT need to be removed! My directions said not to remove it but loosen which I did and it still wouldn't slide out! The next line said to remove it so I removed it thinking that doesn't make sense. Anyway... I removed it... bad idea! It came off easy for sure but I had a tough time getting the spring back in place. BEWARE! Experience rules!

Billl

124cso · Post by **124cso** » Mon Oct 23, 2006 12:57 am

Bill, How did you hold the motor from turning ? I have got things all stripped out ( hoses, radiator etc) but it has to sit in my garage till I work out how to loosen that front pulley. My cars' done 78000 miles so may have had a belt done at some time but EVERYTHING is so darn tight. I suspect possibly a mechanic with "power wrenches" has been at it ?

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Mon Oct 23, 2006 1:44 am

the front pulley is supposed to be tight, about 180 ft lbs of torque. Either use an impact wrench or lock down the flywheel to break it loose

spidernut · Post by **spidernut** » Mon Oct 23, 2006 7:08 am

You can buy or make a tool to lockdown the flywheel. I personally used a piece of angle iron and bent it carefully to fit the teeth in the flywheel. It worked like a charm.

mdrburchette · Post by **mdrburchette** » Mon Oct 23, 2006 9:07 am

I'm glad I have the early style timing cover so that hateful pulley doesn't need to be removed for a simple belt replacement. Wonder why they changed the design?

racydave · Post by **racydave** » Mon Oct 23, 2006 9:21 am

Do not forget to check the belt bearing, at best they last 50K, they are not expensive . You could leave car in gear to help loosten bolts and push fore or aft to line up marks.

124cso · Post by **124cso** » Mon Oct 23, 2006 4:14 pm

Re the comment re old design timing covers, I'm not sure why but they now have an additional tin shield. Perhaps it is the additional loads that might be put on the front pulley with AC and anti smog air pumps etc that needed an increased nut load but the older (1972) 1608's were only torqued up to 88 foot pounds!

mbouse · Post by **mbouse** » Mon Oct 23, 2006 9:17 pm

I just changed the timing belt on my '78 without removing this pulley.

you may want to give that a SERIOUS try first as well. this nut is a pistol to take off.

124cso · Post by **124cso** » Mon Oct 23, 2006 10:30 pm

I assume that youe 78 boes not have the additional tin sheild ? (fixed behind this pulley ?)

mbouse · Post by **mbouse** » Tue Oct 24, 2006 12:36 pm

that is correct. I don't believe that the extra tin shield was used until later models.

honestly, this was the first belt change w/out removing the pulley. i nearly gave up on doing it this way as the clearance between where the belt needs to go and the pulley is very slim. But, the pulley was not budging w/out getting a second set of hands in the engine bay.....which are not available. So, i persisted until i got the belt in place.

as a result, I too am looking for alternatives, is there really clearance for an impact wrench? or, as i've heard, does a hole need to be drilled in the nose?

my '80 had the shield installed, but when I replaced my timing belt, i left the shield off.....i understand that many owners did just that. just because the book says the part is there, don't autmatically believe it to be true w/out inspection.