1979 spider 2000 restoration

[4uall]

Many different options for sure. I did find that the POR15 spread like water and I used considerably less than I would have using other products

[MrJD]

What insulation did you guys use under your carpets? I found some stuff at Lowes that was VERY similar to the factory insulation, but it was about half as thick. I plan on getting similar to factory looking home interior carpet to custom fit to my car. As you know, this stuff is not the thickest on earth either so I will have much less insulation that I did previously. I do, however, plan on buying a nice set of floor mats from Mr. Fiat (the black with yellow trim ones are just CALLING MY NAME!)

So, it will be floor with a rubber undercoating, Truck bed coat on top of that, ~quarter inch insulation with an aluminum surface, carpet, floor mats.

I guess I also need to order a top soon....


Insulation is similar to this
http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3226

[4uall]

Page 5

http://forum.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtop ... hilit=cool

[Exit98]

Here's what I used:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HEAT-SOUND-Shie ... 2698379%26

Stuff worked great. Extra around the trans tunnel. I have no heat buildup at all from the trans for firewall.

Here's the link to my floor:

http://www.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic ... 30&t=18105

[MrJD]

Exit, is that a pint of POR15? Was it enough for the whole floor? How many coats? Some left?

Also, I was, in all honesty, planning to seal all the weird holes in the floor... I found rust around most and i really don't get the point of them. Especially the little V shaped ones that open up the the outside world. I am sure LOTS of my rust is from water getting in from there, as the only thing under it was teh cotton insulation stuff the factory put in.

[azruss]

I think the V shaped tab were there to allow water to drain from the floorboard. They sure work good, eh

[Exit98]

Hey Mr. JD,

Just a pint, one coat is all you need, its thin like water. Did the seat pans too and yes there was some left over. It goes a loooong way.

I didn't close up the drain holes but I just laid the insulation over the top of them. I don't need them anymore.

I first used the stuff when I helped out a friend with the restoration of his Corvette. The stuff works.

[MrJD]

Well, Tonight I discovered that my exhaust is virtually impossible to get off, lol. I dunno what the issue is, but I have a sneaking suspicion its going to take a saw to remove. Will work on it later. I did remove the exhaust heat shielding though... which allowed me to finally get to work cutting out the rust!
(just getting started)


I am going to do it section by section. Internal floors first, then work on the body... more on that later. the "sub rocker" panel area on the passenger side is way worse than I thought... might have to replace the whole thing... What a mess for something that is covered by the rocker to start with!

Rust in the wheel wells on both sides.



driver side


the inner fender seal is rotting out... so weird.


Has anyone ever re-built their door cards? I am going to buy some thin plywood from lowes and try to re-build them.


they look ok other than the chrome strip... but are BADLY warped

[MrJD]

Trying to decide what to do here... I will patch the area of wheel well and body. Thats not a big deal really. the question is... where is the water coming from that caused all that rust?




I think after I clean this up, I will make a drain hole here to let water out through the rockers...


There is a lot of rot in this sub-rocker... I might just clean it up and weld an 16g sheet over the whole thing. Opinion?


Going to patch the two areas i circled in the corners.

[wizard124]

I have to give you an A+ for enthusiasm! Taking on all that body rot.......
I have alot of time in mine over the past 15 months in trying to make things right, and mine is rust free!

[BEEK]

a lot of that rust is from trapped moisture and dirt settling in some areas and becoming damp over the years. keep the body drain holes open and that shouldn't happen. my 73 im restoring is much worse than that, but i have also repaired much worse than my 73.

[SoFlaFiat]

You mentioned the lip on the lower rear valance a while back... My 2 cents, if you are doing body work and painting the car, lose it!! Especially if you are going bumperless or bumperettes

[MrJD]

Jesus... i just keep finding more major problems. I wonder when this car is going to cut me a break?

Look at how badly done these repair panels are...its hard to see in the images, but some of the alignment is off by nearly a quarter inch! Then they just smeared filler over it (with nothing but tack welds!) and called it a day. jesus...

I'm ready to drop the tank and get to welding.

Someone be positive and reassuring for me, lol.





Things I will be buying soon:
1. early mustang turn signals (look great on the spider)
2. some form of side marker... trying to decide between spending $150 on what I want (teardrop style) or getting something else like the early factory (1960's spider) side markers.

Things needed:
1. Single plane manifold and appropriate carb
2. interior carpets and floor mats
3. Muffler set up (thinking of getting a pacesetter Monza tip... afraid it will be too lout and "rice sounding" though...
4. New tan top
5. Various paint and interior insulation for floors


agh... good times.

[spidernut]

Re-carding your door panels is pretty easy. The only tools needed are pliers, a spatula and a staple gun. The rivet for the door handle is not the most thrilling thing to replace, but not anything compared to the rust repairs.

You'll need to remove the top section from the bottom (a few tabs and two rivets where they join together). Remove all the staples from around the welt cord. Carefully remove the vinyl from the old cards (the vinyl can be extremely brittle so try not to break it especially around the outer edges). You may need a spatula to carefully separate the card from the vinyl, but it will come apart fairly easily.

Cut your new cards and reinstall using a staple gun. Mine came out awesome. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v85/s ... 080058.jpg

Glad to hear backing out the idle stop solenoid worked for you. You have no idea how long it took to figure that one out on my car. I'm glad my experience helped you.

I always thought the old 68/69 Firebird tail lights cut in half might be interesting too.

[MrJD]

Bought some stuff for the car

one box of these later, my hood insulation is held tightly in place.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a309/ ... ef956c.jpg

Got my cowl all back together with new wipers and painted arms


Bought some stuff to get my wiring prettied up
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a309/ ... cf52bf.jpg

And, Found what will become my carpet. (its perfect, right color, short fiber, SUPER strong, and has a backing. Best part, ended up being $15)