When the carb that has the booster vacuum port on it's intake runner won't
respond to tuning due to a vacuum leak, spray a little contact cleaner around
the seam of the brake booster and watch what the engine RPM does.
New booster on the way. Sorry Ramzi and Csaba, your site said you had none in
stock. And you know how impatient I can be.
But seriously, I seem to also have a leak where the rear carb connects to the
manifold on the driver side. I have sealed the joint with a bead of silicone on
both sides of the gasket, and still it leaks.
Is there a better, thicker more pliable gasket that anyone knows of for sealing
the idf's to the manifold?
By the way....OMG! The freakin sound of those things up front with the throttle
smashed going thru the gears is freakin awesome!
I honestly cant hear my exhaust system anymore.
And the power is slightly stronger. It more freely pulls up to 6K RPM when I
have the room to do so.
There is a slight stumble with a bit of spitting back thru the carbs as I go
thru 2500 to 3000 RPM on normal type acceleration. You know, like when you are
pulling away from a stop sigh with a police officer observing.
On the other hand if you accelerate in a more aggresive fashion, the stumble is
barely noticeable and the spitting out the carbs is much less if it happens at
all.
I am going to wait for the brake booster and new carb gaskets before I go about
changing anything inside the carburetor.
I have used the info on this site and in myriad other places to tune and balance
the carbs and yes I have used a synchrometer.
I will try to link pics of the throttle linkage I fabricated.
Mine is a '75 that used a short cable with a spool/drum on the carb that was
wrapped with the cable to pull the butterflies open when the pedal is depressed.
I was able to bolt the stock drum to the rear side of the rear carb and I welded
up a bracket to mount to the carb to secure the cable.
Thanks for any advice anyone may offer.
Tom