Tachometer running high and jumping

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77dino

Tachometer running high and jumping

Post by 77dino »

My 80 Spider 2000 was not getting a spark and knowing that much of my ignition system was old I purchased a new coil, ignition module, pick up assembly, button, cap, and new spark plugs. After assembly my car is getting spark and runs, but seems to be missing and the tachometer is crazy.
So I am thinking that I have something put together incorrectly although I double checked my wires on the coil and they looked ok. The Tec is running very high and is jumping and when I am running at faster speed I noticed a miss fire or what feels like a miss fire. Any thoughts would be helpful. Thanks

Scott
vandor
Posts: 3996
Joined: Sat May 23, 2009 1:23 pm
Your car is a: 1971 124 Spider
Location: Texas, USA

Re: Tachometer running high and jumping

Post by vandor »

Did you adjust the magnetic pickup gap?
Some people who had jumping tachs have found that adding a 0.68 uf 400V capacitor to the negative side of the coil fixed it.
Csaba
'71 124 Spider, much modified
'17 124 Abarth, silver
http://italiancarclub.com/csaba/
Co-owner of the best dang Fiat parts place in town
spider2081
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Posts: 3015
Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 11:45 pm
Your car is a: 1981 Spider 2000
Location: Wallingford,CT

Re: Tachometer running high and jumping

Post by spider2081 »

You could disconnect the tach from the coil and see if the tach is causing the misfire.
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bradartigue
Posts: 2183
Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 2:35 pm
Your car is a: 1970 Sport Spider
Location: Atlanta, GA

Re: Tachometer running high and jumping

Post by bradartigue »

77dino wrote:My 80 Spider 2000 was not getting a spark and knowing that much of my ignition system was old I purchased a new coil, ignition module, pick up assembly, button, cap, and new spark plugs. After assembly my car is getting spark and runs, but seems to be missing and the tachometer is crazy.
So I am thinking that I have something put together incorrectly although I double checked my wires on the coil and they looked ok. The Tec is running very high and is jumping and when I am running at faster speed I noticed a miss fire or what feels like a miss fire. Any thoughts would be helpful. Thanks

Scott
Crazy tach (that wasn't crazy before) usually means your new pickup wires have frayed inside the distributor. Common, because the replacements have wires are 3x too long. Check there first.
77dino

Re: Tachometer running high and jumping

Post by 77dino »

Thanks I will look at the pick up tonight.
Scott
77dino

Re: Tachometer running high and jumping

Post by 77dino »

It is the pickup and the wire is frayed. Any ideas on how to keep this from happening when I put a new one in?
narfire
Posts: 3959
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 2:14 am
Your car is a: 1980 124 spider
Location: Naramata B.C.

Re: Tachometer running high and jumping

Post by narfire »

77dino wrote:Any ideas on how to keep this from happening when I put a new one in?
Nope, not really. They all fray and become brittle with time.
Careful when putting it back together as the wires can get caught under the cap.
I'll, carry a spare in the trunk with a shorty 17mm wrench and screw driver.
Chris
80 FI spider
72 work in progress
2017 Golf R ( APR Stg. 1)
2018 F350 crew long box
77dino

Re: Tachometer running high and jumping

Post by 77dino »

I have a question. How do you adjust the magnetic pickup gap? Because of it screwing in place it seems not to have any adjustment in it. Thanks
Scott
vandor wrote:Did you adjust the magnetic pickup gap?
Some people who had jumping tachs have found that adding a 0.68 uf 400V capacitor to the negative side of the coil fixed it.
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bradartigue
Posts: 2183
Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 2:35 pm
Your car is a: 1970 Sport Spider
Location: Atlanta, GA

Re: Tachometer running high and jumping

Post by bradartigue »

If the wires are long (most replacement pickup wires are too long) I usually do one of two things:

1) cut them and splice with tiny butt connectors, you can find these at some electronic stores.
2) there are usually two little holes in the distributor base and I've wire-tied them down.

In either case you need to leave enough room for the thing to move. Easy enough to bench test.

I believe the advance plate can be moved by loosening the screws, increasing or decreasing the gap, but honestly can't say I've ever paid much attention to it on the electronic ignitions.
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