What model should I buy? Need Help

[oscardante]

Hi Everyone,

I'm buying my first spider probably within the next two weeks and I have a question about what model is the "best". I guess that it's up to each person when it comes to the design but I was wondering in terms of reliability and build quality!

I've been looking at two different cars, have not been able to see them in person yet but will see at least one of them this weekend.

Option 1: 1984 Fiat Spider Pininfarina w/ 40K miles
Option 2: 1981 Fiat Spider w/ 50K miles (odometer in kilometers so around 80K km)

I guess in the end it also comes down to how the car looks and what condition its in when I see them, but both run and I can take it for a spin right after I hand my hard earned cash to the seller.

Hopefully people can help, I really appreciate it!

- Oscar, Soon to be a spider owner!!

[divace73]

this questions gets asked all the time and there isn't one answer.

I have a 1980 FI car do I'll say that, it is easier as an everyday driver, but I wouldn't knock back a clean earlier model especially an AS.

Out of the 2 you mentioned just check for the obvious
Rust
How it's been maintained
history
I doubt it's an original 80k's these odometer do not have the one hundred thousand digit so it can be clocked many times over, usually the condition of the rest of the car is a tell tale. If the seat are worn to buggery then it isn't 80k.
I don't know if the odometers in the 84's cars have the 100,000 digit??

pick the best one....

[GeorgeT]

In the long run, sourcing parts for the '81 will be easier and less expensive than for the '84. Some of the Pinninfarina parts were specific to that model only (outside mirrors for example).

[spidernut]

I agree with George T. The 84 will be much harder to source parts. As far as the electrical systems, motor, transmission, differential and most body parts, they are virtually identical. One should be no more or less reliable than the other. The big issue is finding replacement parts for the 84 will be really hard for the steering, interior plastic components, and A/C system.

[oscardante]

So I checked out the 81 today, it looks great, some minor things that needs to be done cleaning and just touch up wise. However, my friend that went with me suddenly noticed some blue smoke from the exhaust, which means that it probably is burning oil! How common is this? and how hard and expensive would it be to fix it?

I'm in the SF Bay Area and really don't know how to fix thinks like this. My friend said I probably would have to rebuild the head gasket or whatever its called I really can't remember what he called it and I'm a little afraid that this will be something that will have to make me walk away from the car. I really would love to by this exact car, the paint job is not what I really want, but I could always repaint it.

I have also found a third option - it's a 79 model, but I heard they have more problems with rust that others, is this correct?


- Oscar

[GeorgeT]

Blue smoke is a sign of oil burning. My experience is that these motors need rebuilding every 70,000 - 100,000 miles due to worn oil control rings. It could also be a sign of worn valve guides. I wouldn't worry a lot about it until the oil consumption get bad or the plugs foul-out often as long as it idles and runs well.

[spidernut]

I agree with George.

If the smoke is caused by worn valve guides and/or seals and you do the work yourself, it would run $300-$600 if you do an overhaul of the head including a valve job at a machine shop. You can purchase a rebuilt head for about $500 including shipping. You'll also need a head gasket set which is about $55-60 with shipping. If you have a mechanic do the work you're looking at closer to $1,200.

If it is the piston rings and everything else is O.K., it would cost you about $300 for honing, new rings and new connecting rod bearings, and another $100ish for gaskets, timing belt and the "might as well replace" parts. To have a shop do the work, you can figure $2000-$2500 or even more depending upon the mechanic.

The bigger issue here in the People's Republic of California is the smog test. If it burns too much oil it will not pass the test. If the owner can give you a valid smog certificate, you'd have two years to complete the work.

[spiderrey]

In calif, 79 would be the worst year to buy. It is so choked out with smog equipment. There are alot of vacuum lines. Its low on power. The later fuel injected cars are much better. Any earlier well sorted car is also much better. I have an ol 79 sitting out back, if it hits the road again it will be converted over to fuel injection first.

[btoran]

keep in mind that any car of the vintage you're looking at (30 - 40 YEARS), is going to have its own set of issues and will need attention from time to time. if not the day you buy it, then down the road. if you're not mechanical and don't have the funds/patience/time to pay a mechanic, buying a car that old is probably not a good fit.

on the bright side, these cars are relatively easy to work on yourself, there's a large network of parts available, and great assistance from this forum if/when you have issues. oh, and the car is an absolute blast to drive (and beautiful to most of us die-hard fans) .

[oscardante]

Thank you guys for so much help. I will probably go with the 81 I looked at then. I'm not against spending some money to get this car working nicely, within reason. I'm not going to restore it to factory, but want it to look nice. I don't know anything avojt motors, however I got to start somewhere and I'm willing to put in the time and elbowgreas to make it look nice and be in the condition I want it in.

[spidernut]

Are you looking at Dee and Wayne's 81 Spider?

[oscardante]

Are you looking at Dee and Wayne's 81 Spider?

I'm not really sure what you mean with Dee and Wayne? Is that the people that sell it (or at least selling another 81 Spider), if so I'm not sure of the sellers name.


Another thing that I was a issue that a cable that goes from the thermostat that is connected to the front of the engine. The plug to lock it in to place was not "locking" in and he had used electrical tape on it to hold it in place, but we opened the hood twice and both times we closed it, it moved the connector enough to shut down the whole car. Is this a easy as getting a new plug at the end of the wire? It might not even be the thermostat but thats what my friend said, it connects to to the front of the engine in the middle and got hit by the thing that makes the hood stay up by itself when open.


- Oscar

[GeorgeT]

That cable goes to the "coolant temperature sensor" in the coolant Tee not the thermostat (the thermostat is external and is a three outlet/inlet device just to the right of the timing belt). Replacement connectors are available from various vendors.

[spidernut]

Wayne and Dee are the owners of an 81 for sale not too far from you. The way you described it, it sounded like their car.

[oscardante]

Wayne and Dee are the owners of an 81 for sale not too far from you. The way you described it, it sounded like their car.

This car has a blue base color with yellow stripes on the side, not my style but I can always repaint it.

- Oscar