Eng starts and dies

[SouthwestSpider]

I used vice grips and squeezed off the fuel supply to the Cold Start Valve. She didn't start. Which is the problem then, the CSV or the Thermo time switch?

[majicwrench]

Neither is likely bad. All you are doing by pinching it off is making sure it is not flooding the engine.
Keith

[rlux4]

Keith is right, neither would be the cause of a no start condition. These two components are specifically cold weather start up related. A FI car will start in cold weather even without them, they just make it easier to start by adding fuel to the intake plenum for a few seconds. If temps are not below around 50-60° you wouldn't be able to tell the difference with or without either. For a full understanding of the conditions related to cold start read Brad Artigue's maintenance manual, in the FI section: http://www.artigue.com/fiatcontent/Arti ... 124_MM.pdf
IF the problem is fuel delivery, here's a good diagnostic for that;
http://www.wcmotors.com/personal/Fiat%2 ... agnostics/
If it's spark related it's no different than any car with electronic ignition from the era.
Ron

[bradartigue]

Yup, verify again no spark, when it is dead is obviously when you want to test, dead is good! You can also pull a plug and see if they are fuel fouled, they will be soaked if they are.

Brad, the forward coolant sensor will not "keep the FI computer from working" or explain to me how this is possible.

Keith

I don't know, elves? Technically it won't make the ECU stop working, I chose a path of least resistance to describe a potential problem (and note it is an area he serviced). Can it make your engine stop working? Absolutely. Every time? Maybe.

Wander in here for a while, wander the right the hell back out.

[bradartigue]

You're getting the basics, fuel, spark, etc. Verify things are set right ignition wise (rotor at #4 with engine at TDC) and move on to diagnosing the equipment outside of the basics. L-Jet isn't so bright, firing all the injectors at the same time and creating a fog of fuel rather than the modern, direct, metered injection we have on cars today. This is good because it means the system works under most circumstances. It is incredibly tolerant of its own failures.

Have you looked inside of your AFM to verify that the flap actually rotates - and rotates very easily all the way to its stops - and that there isn't a big hole in the middle of it?

Are you sure that every single air hose is connected and leak free?

Does the throttle rotate fully without binding?

That temperature sensor you asked about should read 2-3 K Ohms at 68 degrees (terminals 13 and 17 at the ECU if you are testing the whole harness). Every test procedure, even for stuff we don't use like the altitude compensator, is part of Bosch literature, available through lots of places (myself included) or through VW/Porsche sites.

http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/VW/Misc/VW ... Manual.pdf

You'l find this procedure repeated for nearly every L-Jet system produced. FIAT used the most basic implementation so some have more equipment than others, but they all have the basics, made the same way. The fancy ones simply use more connectors and have more tests.

Feel free to email me, send me a PM and I'll reply, or call me (also PM and I'll send the number) and I'm happy to help talk through it. I have not yet completely lost my sanity working on FIATs, but I am getting close.

[SouthwestSpider]

As it turns out my coil and control module when changed brought the car back to normal starting and running. It still wants to run hot during stops at traffic lights. She climbs to just past the 0 in 190 & sticks. She cools down once moving, but it concerns me. She's been sitting for a few months. Is it possible she needs to be burped again?
Many many thanks to Brad Artigue for walking me through the diagnosis and cure for the starting issues!

[RowanT94]

Southwest spider I seem to be having the exact same issues as you with my 81 turbo! I think I going to do what you did and see how that fairs!