Eng starts and dies

[SouthwestSpider]

A couple weeks ago - my Italian girlfriend just died while driving. Got her towed home and after a brief moment when she ran for a minute after rolling her into the garage - I couldn't get her to fire up. Lots of cranking, but no joy. The next evening I turned the key and she started, ran for about a minute and died. I checked out wiring, fuses etc. but could not get her to start. Lots of spark on the plugs, lots of fuel (I could smell it), and the afm door worked. I put the project aside for the weekend.
About four days later I turned the key and she fired up. Revved slowly up almost as though she was going to take off, then died. No amount of cranking could get her to go. Went onto another project.
The next day - the same thing - turned the key - and zoom she started, then she revved up, and died.
In each case - after a couple cranks - she smelled like fuel - as though flooded, but wouldn't start.
Somewhere, somehow, she's being told the wrong information.

Any ideas??

[So Cal Mark]

sounds like it's running on the cold start injector only. Maybe the wire from the coil to the ecu fell off, without a signal to the ecu the injectors won't pulse

[SouthwestSpider]

Where the heck would that wire be located? What does it look like?

[bradartigue]

Check that:

- The AFM is plugged in and the air hose is connected
- The temperature sensor in the forward "T" near the radiator is plugged in. If in doubt, wiggle it.
- The coil and distributor are connected
- The relays, fuses, etc are all in order

Then if it is still no-go:

Remove the AFM and inspect the flap. If you experienced a back fire (where air blows back to the AFM) it may have bent the door or, on some models, blown a little circular cap off of the middle of the door.

[majicwrench]

You need two things, spark and fuel, those two things are what you need to check. THEN you can go down whichever path that leads you. When it won't start, put a spare plug into a plug boot and crank engine, watch for spark. Should go zap zap zap. If it does, check fuel. When it won't start, crack line at CSI, see if fuel sprays. It should. If you are lacking one of those things, follow down that lead, or post back. To just start wiggling/testing/looking is kind of a waste of time till you know which direction you need to go.
Check spark, check fuel. You are lacking something.
Keith

[bradartigue]

You need two things, spark and fuel, those two things are what you need to check. THEN you can go down whichever path that leads you. When it won't start, put a spare plug into a plug boot and crank engine, watch for spark. Should go zap zap zap. If it does, check fuel. When it won't start, crack line at CSI, see if fuel sprays. It should. If you are lacking one of those things, follow down that lead, or post back. To just start wiggling/testing/looking is kind of a waste of time till you know which direction you need to go.
Check spark, check fuel. You are lacking something.
Keith

Well yeah - but the forward coolant sensor will actually keep the FI computer from working. Sometimes, you gotta wiggle it.

[SouthwestSpider]

Brad,
I just replaced the coolant sensor at the T about three weeks ago and the connector that fits to it. I will check that sensor.

[SouthwestSpider]

I checked the sensor and connector and unless it's broken along the wire - it seems to be fine. Is there a way to verify that the wiring is working correctly and the sensor is good?
Each time I turn the key (after maybe 5 minutes) the car starts (as if it's going to run normally), revs and stops.
Would the throttle positioning sensor be a factor or am I jumping around. I'm all for a good methodical process.

[SouthwestSpider]

Mark,
No wires are missing off the coil. Some of the wiring is old - so a crack could exist along the wiring run.

[SouthwestSpider]

Keith,
I have spark verified the spark plug #2 (easiest to get at) has spark, - checked the Cold Start - it squirts, and the AFM door opens without binding.

[SouthwestSpider]

Here's a little information - I got her to run longer than just on and then stop. While it was running, it would rev up, then slow down, then rev up and slow down and it repeated this cycle for a few evolutions and then stalled. I tried adjusting the air screw (next to the TPS) to see if I could regulate the idle. No luck.

[SouthwestSpider]

Back to no start again. Turns over, I can smell the fuel, but she just doesn't fire. I'll go back to check the spark again, but I feel like I'm going in circles.
I guess it's back to the first step. Verify the spark, verify the fuel (spray and injectors) then ?

[majicwrench]

Yup, verify again no spark, when it is dead is obviously when you want to test, dead is good! You can also pull a plug and see if they are fuel fouled, they will be soaked if they are.

Brad, the forward coolant sensor will not "keep the FI computer from working" or explain to me how this is possible.

Keith

[SouthwestSpider]

I followed the diagnostic procedure and discovered that my test light on the connector to the Cold Start shows a steady light. Not on and off within 1-8 seconds. Could the thermo time switch be the problem with my starting and dying?

[wizard124]

I followed the diagnostic procedure and discovered that my test light on the connector to the Cold Start shows a steady light. Not on and off within 1-8 seconds. Could the thermo time switch be the problem with my starting and dying?

Take some vise grips and squeeze off the fuel line leading into the CSV. If she runs then you know its either the timer or a bad CSV that's stuck open and flooding.