Half done with the valve adjustment. ..waiting for the shims. The valve clamp tool works great, but the number 4 exhaust is hell if you don't know what you're doing the first time out. I searched the net and didn't find a good answer. Bottom line: remove the inboard cam tower bolt across from the distributor port. The clamp slips in from the inboard side. Pull the shim, read the numbers or mic it, slide it back in, then put the bolt back in and torque to 14 ft lbs. I didn't figure it out until an International Auto rep and I discussed the issue; he concurred. Unfortunately, I found no one on the Internet that posted an easy no-brainer solution. Most post only say it's a pain and you'll figure it out.
Suggestion: replace and retorque the bolt as soon as possible after removing and replacing the #4 exhaust shim. Put everything back together while waiting on your new shims to arrive. You never want to place sustained uneven pressure on the aluminum towers, they'll warp, unseal the gasket, and cause leaks.
valve adjustment positioning clamp at #4 exhaust
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Re: valve adjustment positioning clamp at #4 exhaust
Thanks for the tip, this is my September project...how did you turn the cams with a socket on the flywheel?
I was thinking of buying a whole tappet shim kit just so I didn't have to rotate the cams and pull the shims more than once, but it's a bit pricey that way.
I was thinking of buying a whole tappet shim kit just so I didn't have to rotate the cams and pull the shims more than once, but it's a bit pricey that way.
Current 81 Spider 2000
Previous 76 Spider
Previous 76 Spider
- opus10583
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Re: valve adjustment positioning clamp at #4 exhaust
Hi,MikeysFiat wrote:Half done with the valve adjustment. ..waiting for the shims. The valve clamp tool works great, but the number 4 exhaust is hell if you don't know what you're doing the first time out. I searched the net and didn't find a good answer. Bottom line: remove the inboard cam tower bolt across from the distributor port. The clamp slips in from the inboard side. Pull the shim, read the numbers or mic it, slide it back in, then put the bolt back in and torque to 14 ft lbs. I didn't figure it out until an International Auto rep and I discussed the issue; he concurred. Unfortunately, I found no one on the Internet that posted an easy no-brainer solution. Most post only say it's a pain and you'll figure it out.
Suggestion: replace and retorque the bolt as soon as possible after removing and replacing the #4 exhaust shim. Put everything back together while waiting on your new shims to arrive. You never want to place sustained uneven pressure on the aluminum towers, they'll warp, unseal the gasket, and cause leaks.
This didn't and never would occur to me.
Thanks!
Mark
...Yes; I know what it means: Fabbrica Italiana Automobili Torino.
DOLCETTO: 1978 CS1; 10:1, DMS, 4-2-1...
ANDIAMMO: 2012 500 ABARTH
Acquista il Biglietto; Prendere la Gita! - Hunter S. Thompson
DOLCETTO: 1978 CS1; 10:1, DMS, 4-2-1...
ANDIAMMO: 2012 500 ABARTH
Acquista il Biglietto; Prendere la Gita! - Hunter S. Thompson
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Re: valve adjustment positioning clamp at #4 exhaust
I can't remember if my tool came from Vicks or IAP, but it works fine without removing anything, a little tight, but fits.
Trey
1982 SPIDER 2000, 1964 CHEVYII, 1969 Chevy Nova, 2005 DODGE RAM, 1988 Jeep Comanche
1972 Spider, 78 Spider rat racer 57 f-100,
1982 SPIDER 2000, 1964 CHEVYII, 1969 Chevy Nova, 2005 DODGE RAM, 1988 Jeep Comanche
1972 Spider, 78 Spider rat racer 57 f-100,