ball joints tips or tricks

[kenmataya]

finally got around to replacing all the tie-rod ball joints after 8 years.... didn't have too much trouble, took some pounding on the pickle fork to get everything loose. steering is tight! unfortunately on the way out the driveway the upper left ball joint gave out, bad grinding noise. coincidence? anyway, i've got upper a-arms ready to install. haven't done a ball joint in 35 years, so i'd appreciate any tips and or tricks. i don't want to damage anything else replacing these and i imagine they'll need some pretty serious pickle fork action, as they're at least 10 years old.

Thanks,
Ken

[wizard124]

Are you replacing the ball joint or simply replacing the upper arm with the ball joint all ready installed? Not clear from your post...

I used some PB Blaster to soak the stud. I loosened the nut but left it on to catch things when it broke loose. Hammered and used a fork with the spring un-restrained to add some push to separate the upper and lower arms. Mine were original and the BJs broke loose pretty easily.

I used a recipricating saw to cut the heads off the BJ rivets. I found this method easier than grinding.

[kenmataya]

hello,

I'm replacing the whole upper arm, so no worries about the rivets! i'll hit it with some liquid wrench and let it soak. i was going to put the jack under the lower ball joint to provide some stablility, but i'll let it hang - think thats a good idea.

Thanks,
Ken

[kenmataya]

well, started off to just change the uppers, but the bolts holding the steering arm were spinning - turns out whoever worked on it last torqued the crap out of them and bent the brake plate that is supposed to keep the clipped bolt heads from turning. ( i can't seem to add images on this site ) so now i need new brake plates - unless i can put lock washer under them?.... it would have to be a star washer cut to match the clip, but i'm not sure how much clearance there is in there. doesn't look like any of the parts places stock the brake plates - any help would be appreciated.

Everything is off, figure i'll go ahead and change the lowers myself. I'll get a spring compressor and try my luck. it wasn't easy getting the top ball joint loose, so i think i'll wait to get the lower off the car before i pound on it to split the lower.

more to come...

[RRoller123]

Here is a thread on how to post pictures to the forum:

http://www.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=21014

And here is a great picture-posting thread edited by SLOSpider:

http://www.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic ... 12&t=23084

[DMECMAnderson]

Got new uppers and lowers from Vicks... Receipt indicates "Grease before Driving", But I can find no zerk fittings to apply grease. Ball Joints are dry. How to apply grease?

[fiat218]

Drill a hole on the top and install a grease sert, my mechanic is doing that to mine

[kenmataya]

talked to csaba at AR, he said no need to grease.

[kenmataya]

anybody replaced the clipped head bolts with hex socket head screws?

[kenmataya]

working on the passenger side, this time i left both upper and lower arms attached to the spindle as i took it off. good thing too, since I had to pound the crap out of the upper ball joint to get is off the spindle. I used a loaner spring compressor from O'Reilly. Actually compressed the spring too much on the first try and the compressor shaft was hitting the shock tower, backed it off and everthing popped right in. You do need to be careful about the orientation of this spring compressor - this alignment worked well - the short tab pointing toward the end of the spring. ( another option might be to get two of these and use both the hooky ends )



i picked up some socket head cap screws, looks like there shouldn't be any interference. I'm waiting for some new dust shields to arrive before i put it back together. One just has to flatten the raised lip ( if it isn't already! ). I'm installing locknuts on the screws.

[fiat218]

talked to csaba at AR, he said no need to grease.

Ok