wood console
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- Posts: 5754
- Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 5:49 am
- Your car is a: 1972 Fiat 124 Sport
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Re: wood console
I just finished veneering dash pieces for a car and stained it to match a horn button on an aftermarket wheel. I had to mix a couple stains together and it wasn't a perfect match but pretty close. The one thing I ran into with the veneer that I didn't have as much problem with the solid wood is sanding it smooth before staining and clearing it. The mahoghany has hard and soft grains and I had to take care to sand the veneer since it's soooo thin and the soft grain sanded down nicely but the hard grain was still raised. It took several more coats of clear to get a smooth finish. One thing you need to make sure of when using veneer is to get the paper backing so the laminate glue doesn't seep through.
1972 124 Spider (Don)
1971 124 Spider (Juan)
1986 Bertone X19 (Blue)
1978 124 Spider Lemons racer
1974 X19 SCCA racer (Paul)
2012 500 Prima Edizione #19 (Mini Rossa)
Ever changing count of parts cars....It's a disease!
1971 124 Spider (Juan)
1986 Bertone X19 (Blue)
1978 124 Spider Lemons racer
1974 X19 SCCA racer (Paul)
2012 500 Prima Edizione #19 (Mini Rossa)
Ever changing count of parts cars....It's a disease!
Re: wood console
Denise,
Did you apply sanding sealer before you stained the veneer?
2 coats about 2 hours apart with a light sanding after each coat is dry, and you wont have that sanding problem you discussed. After last coat is dry then go ahead and stain as usual.
Sanding sealers are usually used on all hardwoods like oak and mahogany.
Did you apply sanding sealer before you stained the veneer?
2 coats about 2 hours apart with a light sanding after each coat is dry, and you wont have that sanding problem you discussed. After last coat is dry then go ahead and stain as usual.
Sanding sealers are usually used on all hardwoods like oak and mahogany.
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- Patron 2022
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- Your car is a: 1982 2000 Spider
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Re: wood console
OK class, who can tell me what is the determining factor in classifying whether a wood is "hard" or "soft". No fair looking it up.
Ron (Ex woodshop teacher)
Ron (Ex woodshop teacher)
Re: wood console
I know this one! I might not count though, because I spend a lot of time working with woods, so I'll let someone else answer. I'll just leave you with the hint that it doesn't necessarily have a thing to do with how hard the wood is!
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- Patron 2022
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- Your car is a: 1982 2000 Spider
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Re: wood console
whoa, you're good Danno. Most people who do a lot of woodwork don't know this.
Also, the word Viagra is not in the answer.
This was one of the first things I used to teach a new class, this and how to read a tape measure.
Ron
Also, the word Viagra is not in the answer.
This was one of the first things I used to teach a new class, this and how to read a tape measure.
Ron
Re: wood console
Did I ever tell you about my College buddy? First day teaching shop he was covering safety. I don't recall how it happened, but he about lost his entire pinky. They were able to save it and stitch it up, but geesh, can you imagine? It's one thing to have 9 fingers after teaching for 30 years, but to be first day in and teaching safety? Guess he can add a little personal experience to his safety stories.....
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Re: wood console
It's that whole coniferous and deciduous thing isn't it?
Brian G. Butler
Colby Village
Nova Scotia, Canada
'79 Fiat 2000
Colby Village
Nova Scotia, Canada
'79 Fiat 2000
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- Patron 2022
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- Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2008 8:32 pm
- Your car is a: 1982 2000 Spider
- Location: Granite Falls, Wa
Re: wood console
Exactly! Coniferous = soft, deciduous = hard. Deciduous (drops leafs) usually grow slower, hence denser, harder. Although there are a lot of "soft" woods that are harder than "hard" woods, and naturally vice-versa.
You had it, right Danno?
Good work KillerB.
Class dismissed.
Ron
BTW: I am missing 1/2" from my left middle finger (skil saw). I used to tell my students that I did it on purpose to demonstrate the importance of tool safety.
You had it, right Danno?
Good work KillerB.
Class dismissed.
Ron
BTW: I am missing 1/2" from my left middle finger (skil saw). I used to tell my students that I did it on purpose to demonstrate the importance of tool safety.
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- Posts: 5754
- Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 5:49 am
- Your car is a: 1972 Fiat 124 Sport
- Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Re: wood console
No, I haven't tried a sanding sealer. Would that cut down on how many coats it took to completely hide the wood grain? I might try it on the next dash I make.pope wrote:Denise,
Did you apply sanding sealer before you stained the veneer?
2 coats about 2 hours apart with a light sanding after each coat is dry, and you wont have that sanding problem you discussed. After last coat is dry then go ahead and stain as usual.
Sanding sealers are usually used on all hardwoods like oak and mahogany.
1972 124 Spider (Don)
1971 124 Spider (Juan)
1986 Bertone X19 (Blue)
1978 124 Spider Lemons racer
1974 X19 SCCA racer (Paul)
2012 500 Prima Edizione #19 (Mini Rossa)
Ever changing count of parts cars....It's a disease!
1971 124 Spider (Juan)
1986 Bertone X19 (Blue)
1978 124 Spider Lemons racer
1974 X19 SCCA racer (Paul)
2012 500 Prima Edizione #19 (Mini Rossa)
Ever changing count of parts cars....It's a disease!
Re: wood console
mdrburchette wrote:No, I haven't tried a sanding sealer. Would that cut down on how many coats it took to completely hide the wood grain? I might try it on the next dash I make.pope wrote:Denise,
Did you apply sanding sealer before you stained the veneer?
2 coats about 2 hours apart with a light sanding after each coat is dry, and you wont have that sanding problem you discussed. After last coat is dry then go ahead and stain as usual.
Sanding sealers are usually used on all hardwoods like oak and mahogany.
Most definitely, that is the reason for the product. It helps level the wood surface. Helps to stiffen the soft parts of the grain. Minwax makes a good one, but they all make one. If you are having problems with stain soaking in unevenly, or parts of the grain turn darker than other parts, use wood conditioner. Its sold in the same area as the stain and sealer. You put it on right before the stain, about 15 minutes and the stain wont be drawn into the grain as deeply as before giving you a smoother and more even finish.
Click and view all seven steps
http://www.easy2diy.com/cm/easy/diy_ht_ ... d=35720433
Re: wood console
i've been working with wood for a very long time. I personally dont ever use and water based or combo stain poly. If your looking for some top grade veneer go to woodcrafters they are a little high but they have almost everything you cant find else where. http://www.woodcrafters.com Some tips on getting a flawless finish. always sand more than you think is needed i usually go up to 500 grit no need to wet sand in most cases. with real mahogany you should use filler for the grain its a long process with lots of steps so it'd be best to look it up if you were to attempt it. The most important step is to buff the finish in between coats with 00 steel wool and if thats not enough use 600 grit. most of the time i dont even use stain its all about preference. with finishes always use something with UV protection for a car or anthing thats outside. make sure that the piece your working on is really dry and when it is put one coat of finish all over it front, back, and end grain that will help seal out any moisture preventing it from warping and cracking in the future. most wood workers wont give that stain/poly the time of day. i could keep going on and on but i wont because im tired.
Re: wood console
BTW: Im missing some of my middle finger. all because of a router table im lucky to have kept whats left. the emergency stop really does help. I guess thats what i get when i dont check that the bit is tightened when other people put it in.
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- Posts: 5754
- Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 5:49 am
- Your car is a: 1972 Fiat 124 Sport
- Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Re: wood console
I'm glad I still have all my fingers! Good points mentioned. I sand between coats and on mahoghany, it usually takes 10 to 12 coats to get a glossy finish. Maybe I can cut down on a few coats using the filler. I also prefer the natural colors of the wood vs staining.
1972 124 Spider (Don)
1971 124 Spider (Juan)
1986 Bertone X19 (Blue)
1978 124 Spider Lemons racer
1974 X19 SCCA racer (Paul)
2012 500 Prima Edizione #19 (Mini Rossa)
Ever changing count of parts cars....It's a disease!
1971 124 Spider (Juan)
1986 Bertone X19 (Blue)
1978 124 Spider Lemons racer
1974 X19 SCCA racer (Paul)
2012 500 Prima Edizione #19 (Mini Rossa)
Ever changing count of parts cars....It's a disease!
Re: wood console
I wouldn't do it if I was you... I have a friend who builds furniture for a living, and is very good at what he does. He decided to make the door panels and console on his alfa out of wood. The results were terrible... It just doesn't look rite.royce71 wrote:I was thinking of staining it the same color as my steering wheel, which I belive is red mohogany, and of course refinishing the shift knob and dash wood as well.