Cleaning out lug bolt threads

[njoconnor]

One of the 2 PO's installed Ansen wheels on the 72 Spider, and at some point at least one of the bolt threads on each wheel became fouled (we learned this when the local tire guys could not get one of the right rear bolts anywhere near 65ft/lbs, and one of the lefts barely there). I've managed to carefully run a lubricated OEM bolt into all four bolt holes to proper depth on each front wheel. I have two on the right rear and one on the left rear which aren't playing nice. I have a thread chaser/cleaner set with the correct 12x1.25 thread.

A friend recommended chasing the threads from the back side of the hub. It appears I'd have to remove the brake backing plate to do this, correct? And if the backing plate comes off, am I also unmounting the brake calipers? Would this be an effective/safer way to clean the bolt holes? Any other ideas?

My main mechanic has encouraged me to clean the threads, but is quite willing to assist with changing over to studs/lug nuts. In the long run, is this a better idea in any case?

Ansens will be replaced by a nice, clean set of CD-3's I just picked up. Can't tell if the Ansens are 4x98 or not; they certainly look close, but I'm sticking with the CD3's.......I just prefer the look. Ansens will be on the block once I clean them up.

Thanks in advance.

[vandor]

If the threads are messed up at the outside, so you can't get a clean start, then starting form the back may be a good idea.
Otherwise just start from the front.
To get to the back you need to remove the brake caliper with its holder (two 17mm bolts) and the brake disc. Then you may have enough space to start the thread chaser from the back. If not likely the axle shaft would have to be removed.

Opinions vary on running studs/nuts. There is nothing inherently wrong with it, just be sure to locktite the studs in so they don't start to unscrew when you remove a lugnut. I've also know people who threaded a bolt in from the back side to act as a stud, and of course that will never come out If you do this one of the flats has to be ground down to clear the disc.

[njoconnor]

Thanks, Csaba. All the starting threads are in good shape, so it's simply a matter of going slow. Think I'll skip the whole caliper thing until it's time to change pads!

Neil

[majicwrench]

When you say they "couldn't get rear bolt anywhere near 65lb" does that mean they couldn't get it tight?? If that is the case, the threads need more than just chased. You've only go four on a fiat, they all need to be in good shape. And without looking it up, I thought the torque on my 72 was 45lbs (at least that is what I torque em to).
If bolts won't tighten down, you need helicoils or something similiar.
Keith

[4uall]

do not meant to hijack, I did just lost a lug nut myself http://wwwe.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopi ... a&start=15 when replacing lug nut I take it we should not be putting on Permatex Copper Anti-Seize?

[majicwrench]

I use locktight on mine, and torque em to 45lbs. Antisieze I use mostly for exhaust fasteners.
Keith

[njoconnor]

45? Hmmm. Seems I recall searching for threads, and saw 60-65 recc'd for alloys, at least. Back to the books for me!

And yeah, I really want 4 of 4 working on each wheel!

Neil

[vandor]

I use 65 ft-lb, I think that is what Fiat said. Most vehicles torque higher than that.

[majicwrench]

Hmm, I don't recall where or why I came up with #45, but I would have seen it somewhere. I just did a quick search, one poster said 65, another 50. I'll snoop in my books when I get a minute.
Keith

[Coolbreeze]

I use locktight on mine, and torque em to 45lbs. Antisieze I use mostly for exhaust fasteners.
Keith

I use Permatex non-hardening Formagasket on both the threads and the surface where the stud rubs against the wheel. The studs never come loose and are relatively easy to take off when the time comes. This not only protects the metal against spalling, but also protects against corrosion.

[njoconnor]

Had some time after a long day of granite shopping (kitchen project), so went out to the garage to work the thread issue. Used lots of cutting fluid, and the correct chaser/cleaner from a nifty $60 set from Craftsman, and to my great surprise/joy, managed to clean and straighten ALL of the recalcitrant bolt hole threads (cleaned all of them out for good measure)! Ran stock bolts in to make sure, and then mounted the new wheels/caps to the car. Got all 16 bolts torqued down to 60 ft/lbs without a single glitch.





I really like the CD3's in lieu of the Ansens. Even my wife commented on the change (she likes the FIAT hubcaps). As for bolt treatments, I use a coating of axle grease: provides a mechanical lock, lubricates, and protects from rust. No issues removing tires on any of the rest of the fleet, past or present.

Next up: out comes the dash to finish the flooring, then lots of slathering of various chemical coatings on the floor steel.

Thanks for the info and encouragement!

Neil

[vandor]

Yup, that's a great looking wheel!