I saw the ad prior to your post and the colors are hideous!!! It doesn't take much to total an older car and end up with salvage title...I'd advise you have an expert inspect the body and frame before buying it. Also, check the car over using a very thin microfiber cloth with a magnet inside. If the magnet doesn't stick, there is body filler there. That should help identify spots repaired with body filler. Again...take it to a specialist unless you know body and frame work. I've seen some pretty tweaked frames and uni-bodies in my life that looked just fine from the outside. It could be something relatively small, but it isn't worth taking a chance. Get and expert to look at it unless they have photos of every step of the repairs.
The smog issue is an easy one: California law mandates that the seller provide a smog certificate within 90 days of the sale. You're off the hook but the seller is not! The fuel injected cars normally pass very easily if all the emissions parts are present and working. Make the seller provide the smog certificate.
Ensure it does not have expired license plate tags. You will have to pay the penalties...and they can get really, really expensive. See:
http://dmv.ca.gov/vr/vr_info.htm. There are ways around the penalties, but read the law carefully! You could be out $700 in back fees and penalties like me.
The 81s didn't come with radios. They were an expensive option.
81s didn't come with power steering
Look for rust in all the typical areas. Make the seller pay for any back registration fees and penalties and smog inspection. Otherwise, pass on it unless you want it for parts or as a significant project.
John G.
1979 Spider (Owned since 2000)
1971 124 Sport Spider (Owned since 2017)
1977 Spider (Sold 2017)
1979 Spider (Disposed of in 2017)
1979 Spider (Sold 2015)
1980 Spider (Sold in 2013)
1981 Spider (Sold in 1985)
2017 Spider (Owned since 2019)