rear sway bar install

[azruss]

I'm installing an addco rear sway bar. the kit includes 2 metal sleeves about 1" long. Can't figure out where they go. Mark?

[manoa matt]

That is the sleeve for the end link.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/12662916@N04/5544604843/

[vandor]

I remember those being more than 1" long, but I don't have a car here to look at...

[azruss]

Here is what i have. The U-bolts are huge and looks like i would run out of threads before they get tight. the U bracket is big enough, it almost misses the side of the axle. (early style). As you can see by the assembly, it looks like either the sleeve is too short or the bolt is too long. when i push the bar in place, it looks like the bushing is ok and the bolt is too long. whatchathink.

[manoa matt]

For the second picture, on each side between the bushing and the spacer/tube should be one of those dished washers. Pull the bolt and washer out and insert it from the other side. You can double check the orientation in the link i provided.

The first picture, the setup is correct. That axle spacer/stand off is a poor design. When i assembled mine, I did as you did. I kept turning the nuts and watched as the stand off kept spreading and nothing ever got tight except for the bar against the bottom of the diff center. Flipped it over and tried again, but that wasn't going to stay in position when the suspension flexed and spaced the bar too far down from the axle. I ended up making my own axle spacer/ standoff out of derlin. I took a 3/4" thick block that was about 2" square and drilled a hole the same diameter of the axle tube in the center. Then i cut it into two equal halves down the center. The critical measurement is from the bottom of the axle tube down to the top surface of that flat plate. It needs to be at least 3/4" or the bar will contact the center part of the differential at the drain plug.

Edit: You can search through razooli's photo stream and see the setup. Photo No. 4852 shows the correct end link assembly. But if you look at photo number 4863, you can see the brackets need to be placed further appart, touching the upper trailing arm axle brackets. In order to do this you need to remove the brake line axle clamps and un-tuck the brake line from under the upper trailing arm axle bracket, as seen in photo no. 4870. The stock brake line clamps are one time use, after you cut them off, replace with a large s.s. hose clamps. Also in 4863 the sway bar is contacting the diff center, that's why I made the spacer. I took some pictures and will upload them tomorrow afternoon.

[azruss]

the kit didn't come with enough tapered washers for what you suggest. It did come with some standard flat washers that are the wrong size. Will go looking for a better set of washers today. I did buy a 2.5" ubolt from Copperstate. They look very short, so I'm concerned about interference with the axle.

[manoa matt]

See the pictures of how I set mine up. I switched out the lower end link bushings that came with the kit with some red urethane ones from the performance section of the local auto parts store. They were slightly smaller and I had to use some extra washers in the end link assembly so the nut would not bottom out on the threads of the bolt.

I added the derlin spacer to keep the bar from contacting the differential center and because I was not happy with the piece that came with the kit. I guess you could keep the existing bracket there, just insert a 3/4" thick block between the axle and the bushing plate and tighten it up.

I should have plenty of those dished end link washers and extra end link bushings if you want them. Just pay shipping.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/71782262@N ... hotostream

http://www.flickr.com/photos/71782262@N ... otostream/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/71782262@N ... otostream/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/71782262@N ... otostream/

[Tobi]

Hey Matt, I kept going on your Flickr pics. What is the story on the 43 weights on that one iron cross wheel?

[manoa matt]

At one point I had (10) CD-16/Iron cross rims that I had media blasted. I picked the best 6 and refinished them. 2 rims were so corroded they were unfit for use and I recycled them. I sold one good rim that was blasted but unfinished. Just last week I took that other blasted but unfinished CD-16 rim to the recycler as the inner lip was bent up in a few spots. I also recycled the steel 1979 rim (I should delete the photos of those rims)

I took the 6 refinished rims with me to the tire store, (4 runners, and one spare)

That one was the odd ball and required all those weights and still was a little unbalanced. I think its around a pound and a half of weights. There are no dents in the rim and when I spin it on a spare hub it does not wobble. I was going to offer it for sale at a reduced price for someone that needs a spare rim to match their others. I just have not gotten around to making a for sale posting. I would only mount the spare tire on that rim and use it only when needed. The tire tech said put it on the back of the car and it should be fine, but not the front.

Shipping anywhere in the US for that rim is around $30, if you are interested, pay what you want/think is fair. Whatever will be fine with me.

matt.scarton@gmail.com

[So Cal Mark]

we put that link together with the threaded end down, otherwise you need to drill a hole in the subframe to accomodate the length of the shaft

[azruss]

Here is the final install: I changed out the U-bolts with a 2.5". couldn't find anything longer in that size, so I bent the wings up on the bushing brackets to reach the threads.
Mark, I finally figured out reversing the long bolt on my own. I guess i still had some working brain cells at 11 pm. Obviously, not many.