75-78 Spider Owners

[spidernut]

I'm hoping to look at a 75 Spider this weekend. I am extremely familiar with 79+ Spiders. I know what to look for regarding the standard rust issues of shock towers, floor boards, trunk pans, rocker panels, etc., on all Spiders. I'm mechanically savvy as well and do all my own mechanical work.

However, are there any specific mechanical areas of vulnerability unique to this year range of the Spider? Is there anything specific to the 75-78 Spiders that I should be aware of?...hard to find parts if they're missing, common problems with the 1800 models, difficult to locate parts, common failures unique to the earlier cars, electrical issues that these years have versus electrical issues with later Spiders, etc.

I know it still has the original dual point distributor, was rebuilt a while back and is allegedly all original. I'm considering a 75 because it is smog exempt in California. The first thing I'd do is to dump the dual points and convert to a magnetic pickup.

[Exit98]

Hi John,

I got my 76 from California and it was already totally de-smogged. How he got away with that is a mystery to me.

It also had electronic ignition.

As far as I know there's nothing special about these mid-years cars once the smog stuff's off. The stock exhaust header is quite restrictive. An earlier 4-2-1 and downpipe takes care of that. Mine has an external voltage regulator. I don't care but the alternator can be upgraded.

Once freed up the 1800 is a sweet free revver.

Oh, I think the stock carb on my 76 is a 32 ADFA. Later ones may have had smaller carbs. I'm going to upgrade to a 34 ADFA, but my 32 works fine.

[SLOSpider]

If its a 75 then your good to good. Has the same body issues as you mention. Last two Spiders I bought I Ca recently have messed up VIN #s on the tittle. They either cut it short on the numbers or didn't start with the 124... Check and make sure it matches regardless. Also I would get the plate/vin number if its out of registration and run it by AAA or DMV and ask how much to transfer it. MY 73 I was told was on NON OP. AAA told me nope and it would be 700 dollars to transfer being out 3 years. Make negotiations easier.

[fiat218]

Got a 79 from cal
It was the most mickmouse put together that I ever seen lol
Just adding my 2 cents

[manoa matt]

75 and 76 cars can be grouped together and 77 and 78 cars can be grouped together. From 76 to 77 were a few major/minor changes.

Electrical diagrams for the 75 and 76 are hard to come by, but I have them in PDF form if you need. 75-76 cars used an electric fuel pump and a fuel pump relay, the relay grounded via the low oil pressure light switch. They used 32ADFA carbs actuated by a cable, 77-78 cars also used a 32ADFA, but actuated by the cam box mounted rod linkage. 77-78 was a mechanical fuel pump.

75-76 cars had a 45 amp externally regulated alternator on the exhaust side, and corresponding deep dish water pump pulley. The smog pump is "high on the engine" and driven via a toothed belt off the exhaust cam wheel. If the smog pump seizes, it can throw the timing belt and wreck the engine. The 75-76 main crank pulley has only one groove for a V belt

77-78 cars had a 55 amp internally regulated alternator on the intake side with a shallow dish water pump pulley. The smog pump is low on the engine and driven via a "V" belt off the main crankshaft pulley. the 77-78 main crank pulley has 3 grooves for V belts.

The 75-76 cars have an extra electrical component on the dash center panel called an "idiogram pentometer" sp? IIRC its a secondary rheostat that dims the interior or fiber optic lights. If its missing, its hard to come by, just source the center wood panel without the hole.

75-76 had a 6 hole dash with an oil pressure gauge filling the 6th hole. 77-78 had a 5 hole dash, no oil pressure gauge.

[spidernut]

It sounds like the smog pump could be a pretty big issue since they're unavailable now. From the one photo I could find, it appeared it is driven by a separate belt from the timing belt....is that right? It seems that the smog pump could be easily removed or at least the belt removed.

[Exit98]

If it's still on there the pump should be the first thing to go.

[manoa matt]

The smog pumps are available as re-manufactured units, however it does not make economic or performance sense, unless you are required by the state.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/searc ... &make=Fiat

[santafe308]

on my 79 ca fiat my smog pump was froze but i removed ,took apart, and lubed the crap out of it and placed in a vice just tight enough to hold but not smash the pulley and just worked it slowly back and forth. did that few months ago an still pumps good havent smoged car yet but thats another story..