Short Block or Rebuild?

[deadhead]

Just got my new to me 80 running great after cleaning clogged injectors, cold start valve, replacing water pump, and 95 amp alternator.

Now I can hear some rod rattle and an occasional knock, I just ran across the dented oil pan thread and sure enough the PO had bashed in the bottom pretty good, so I figure the oil pump pickup is detached.

Odometer quit working on this thing at 03435.2 so I have no idea what true mileage is. The engine is coming out anyway so, for anyone that's been down this road; How would you proceed and why?

Reman "preformance"short block from Vick is $1800 and I can probably do it myself. What exactly make's it "performance"? Other than gaskets what else would I probably need?

Any guess to what would be a resonable price for local rebuild of crank and rod bearings?

Advice/experience appreciated.

Linn

[BEEK]

I do not know what vics puts into their "performance" rebuild.

for me there are 2 schools of thought in performance shortblocks. you can go the economy route (high compression pistons only). or you can do a race build. the application and your intended use and other factors will really govern what you should do.

1. is the head going to be left stock?
2. are you going to use stock or performance cams?
3. will you port and polish the head?
4. will you install big valves?
5. will the induction system be your limitation?
6. what type of exhaust will you use?
7. what octane fuel can you get, and will you run?

all of these are factors that should be considered before jumping into a "performance" shortblock.

i will gladly recommend, as well as many others here will to, what i think you should do after we answer some of these questions.

lastly what is your budget, thats the one that hurts the most usually!

you can call me anytime, my phone number is in my signature

[deadhead]

Bang for buck is what on everyones mind I guess. I've got less that 2k into the car so far. Probably could drop another 3 into it and be OK. I'm a pretty good wrench and have 4 days off a week that would otherwise be wasted fishing and drinking beer

I don't want to build it to the point I overwhelm tranny and rear end. I'd like to lighten the crank pully and flywheel while I'm at it.

1.Probably keep heads as they are at this point. Maybe port and polish depending on bang/buck ratio.

2. Stock cams as I imagine the FI won't like them without a lot of tweaking.

3. I'd love a set of Mark's Headers...but would need something to deal with the heat to the intake rrubber and airbox.

4. Been running 93 in the Vette for years so I guess I could tolerate another premium mouth to feed. I'm guessing 10:1 would be about right as far as compression. What's stock in these things and what kinda bang can ya get with 10:1?

Linn

[So Cal Mark]

If it were me, and I had the time, I'd build it myself. You can certainly save some money over purchasing the short block and have more flexibility in the build.
The 2Ls like more compression, and 10:1 will give you more flexibility with cam choices with the stock FI.

[narfire]

Budget is the determining factor in my opinion as to how far what can get done.
Doing the build yourself is a big plus but if you go to the oversized higher compression pistons, then outsourcing the boring and balancing would have to be done. Here the re-boring is about $60.00/hole and balancing a couple hundred.
Shaved flywheel is good. stock head is fine, but nicer if head work is done. perhaps source a decent 1800 head and over time and $$ permit perhaps have that head "tweeked" and in the future swap out the stock head.
I have Marks 274 FI cams on my FI engine and with the adjustable cam gears,the engine pulls stronger than stock.
Headers help as well.
My engine work was done over several years as it is not inexpensive, but I like the benefits so it is worth it to me.
Chris

[deadhead]

Well...I found a "good" used stock 79 Short block for $225.

I'm now thinking about transitioning things. Replace the shortblock for now, then take my time sourcing the good stuff for the rebuild of the old block.

It'll end up being 2 pulls, but I figure I could get it back to where I was in a week or so...and then drop in the buffed up version later this summer.

In the mean time I'll just have to suffer driving the Vette and Harley.

Crazy thing is I like driving the Fiat more than the Vette, and way more than the Harley but only when it's raining...

Linn

[deadhead]

Latest plan and parts ordered.

Going to transition the build to get things going again sooner than later.

Used 79 Shortblock
Lightened crank and waterpump pully
Lightened Flywheel and new bolts
Gasket set

I figured I might as well put the lightened up stuff in there now, and rebuild the old block with HC pistons later this summer.

I don't quite understand the oil pump configuration on these things. Other than a new pump what do I need? Bushings, bearings?

Looks like there was a change in the oil pump gear depending on chassis# somewhere in 79. My new/old block is a 79 but I won't know the chassis#

Here's an exploded diagram so if someone could help me out I'd be most appreciative.

http://www.spiderroadster.com/124lube.htm