79 Spider w/ Carb hates cold

[SantaClaraJoe]

I go to start my car in the early morning, It is really tough to get her going. It can take six or more tries eventually she turns over, warms up and I'm on my way (or I give up and drive the truck.) It has been relatively cold mornings in Bay Area this month. 45 deg F to 30 deg F.

I follow the instructions in the Fiat Spider 2000 1980 owner's manual found in the glove box for Cold Engine Start:
- Move gearshift lever to neutral.
- Depress clutch pedal, especially in cold climates.
- Depress accelerator pedal and release. This will enable automatic choke to come into operation.
- Insert and turn ignition key clockwise to the stop. i.,e. position AVV, page8. As soon as engine is started release key which will snap back to position MAR
- If the engine stalls, repeat starting procedure.
- Do not step on accelerator pedal until the engine is running smoothly.
- During warm-up the automatic choke will be deactivated progressively.
- Avoid sudden accelerations when engine is cold. At this stage to reduce engine idle speed befor placing the transmission in gear slightly depress and release the accelerator pedal.
- Do not continue with repeated starting attempts. If the engine fails to start or stalls at idling have the fuel and ignition systems checked as soon as possible.
Twice last week, she started on the first turn of the key early in the morning. I think these days were a little warmer than 45 deg F before sunrise. Any other time of the day she starts on the first turn of the key. This morning I went out at noon, and started her for the first time all day. first turn of the key.

recently had new ignition switch, and valve adjustment. Is there some thing else to add to the Cold Start section that is not in the manual? What kind of problem could be so temperature related?

[So Cal Mark]

it's really common to find those water chokes inoperative. The other common issue is that the accelerator pump diaphragm leaks, causing an empty float bowl after sitting overnight.

[dmwhiteoak]

I have a water choke on my 78. In cold weather I depress the accelerator two or three times to activate the choke. Sometimes you just have to make your own starting instructions.

[rodman]

Update the carb

[westy64]

Maybe you can only change the choke and go for a manual conversion kit.

There is one from Webcon quite expensive (£57 + shipping).
I do not know if any of the universal ones sold in the US (autozone, etc...) might fit well.

I just ordered the webcon and wait for it. Really hope it fits and works well.

[Fi8spider]

Have you checked your spark plugs recently?
Worn or fouled plugs suffer even more in the cold.

[blazingspider]

Assuming your choke mechanism is like mine on a 34 ADF.

Start by checking to see if your choke is working properly. Pull the air cleaner off and depress the throtlle once. The choke flap over the primary barrel should snap close. There should be a slight gap between the flap and the barrel body. If you open the flap with your hand you should feel some moderate spring tension trying to close it again.

The tighter the tension the longer it will take to open the flap. Tighter = colder weather.

If the spring tension is to weak or to tight, you can rotate the water choke housing to increase or decrease the spring tension. There are 2 index marks, one on the water choke body and the other on the carb body. If you loosen the 3 screws holding the water choke you can rotate the body to either loosen or tighten the spring tension. It will be readily apparent which way you need to rotate it once you're in there.

If the flap isn't closing at all and stays open then you need to clean up the actuating arm linkage. A lot of times, the actuating arm mechanism gets gunked up. You can remove the water choke body, the one with the 2 hoses going to it, by unscrewing the 3 screws that hold it to the carb body. No need to worry about coolant spill as it is contained in the housing. I don't even remove the hoses on mine but you may have to. Then you will have to deal with coolant.

Once you have the housing off you will see, a plastic spacer with a slot in it for an arm that fits into the spring on the backside of the choke housing. The spacer should just pry right off. Now you're looking at the actuating arm, it's springs and its linkage. Clean the area up by spraying carb cleaner and then WD 40. Move the arm back and forth to ensure it operates smoothly and doesn't hang up. Re-assemble everything and adjust the spring tension. You can start out by lining the 2 index marks up.

You also need to check the fast idle setting on the choke as well. That's the long screw that disappears into the carb body where the choke is. The further you screw it in, the higher the idle speed will be when the choke is engaged. Hope this helps