1980 FI Will Not Start

[azruss]

exhaust and intake pulleys are different. in the pic. exhaust on the left, intake on the right.

[DocGraphics]

Here's a pic of my pulleys on the motor w/o the bolts so you can see the alignment pin locations, this is with the timing holes lined up to the markers on the cam towers. Doesn't look like the alignment pin holes are @ 12 oclock, both look to be offset just a bit.

[SLOSpider]

The 12:00 position was just to identify the marks for timing holes to determine if you had a exhaust or intake gear. Not the true camshaft alignment.

[btexpress]

The numbers do not relate to my cam pulleys but if the right pulley should have two holes for timing marks and the left only one then mine have been switched. Also the dowel pin location is slightly right of the timing marks on the right pulley opposite mine. Now what to do. I am having trouble getting the pulley bolt to break loose. Just to check I am going to try to move the pulleys to the position where they would be if switched back. I know now to watch the dowel pin location more that the marks on the pulley. I also know to turn the motor over by hand any time I make a changed so as not to have the valves and pistons using the same space at the same time. On the bolt I put a pry bar against one of the teeth of the pulley and against the fender weld and put as much pressure as I dared and nothing. They don't have a left had thread do they? The bolt does not have a L on it so I assumed not. Since it goes into an alluninum housing I am afraid of breaking something else. You have been a great help.

[btexpress]

Got it running by roughly aligning where I thought the right timing would be and looking at the intake/exhaust lobs on the respective cams via info from another site. I appreciate every bodys input as I have been working on getting this car running for over a year. Still have to change the cam pulleys but for the time being it is running.

In the picture above where the cam pulleys are on the motor what is the cap on the water line coming from the rear of the head. Is this a method of burbing the car to get water into the motor water jacket? If that is what it is I may put one on mine.
Thanks again for all your help.

[SLOSpider]

The numbers do not relate to my cam pulleys but if the right pulley should have two holes for timing marks and the left only one then mine have been switched. Also the dowel pin location is slightly right of the timing marks on the right pulley opposite mine. Now what to do. I am having trouble getting the pulley bolt to break loose. Just to check I am going to try to move the pulleys to the position where they would be if switched back. I know now to watch the dowel pin location more that the marks on the pulley. I also know to turn the motor over by hand any time I make a changed so as not to have the valves and pistons using the same space at the same time. On the bolt I put a pry bar against one of the teeth of the pulley and against the fender weld and put as much pressure as I dared and nothing. They don't have a left had thread do they? The bolt does not have a L on it so I assumed not. Since it goes into an alluninum housing I am afraid of breaking something else. You have been a great help.

post a pic so we can see what you are talking about. Having an impact gun greatly helps in taking the bolts off.

[DocGraphics]

Yea that T with the plastic cap in the heater return hose is for filling & burping, that is the highest spot in the motor.
There are directions for filling/burping this way here on the site, don't have a link but searching for "burping" should find it.

[jimj]

Well we towed the car home without any problems and it is now in the garage. Bad news is I can not get the intake cam pulley bolt lose. I am currently soaking it with PB blaster.

In my attempt to get the cam bolt out I took a vise grip and clamped the belt to the pulley and tried turning with a 2’ bar and socket but only managed to rip up about a third of the belt; the bolt did not budge. I will let the PB blaster soak for the night but am wide open to suggestion on how to best free that %#$& intake cam bolt. Also do I turn the cam bolt clockwise or counter clockwise to loosen it. I am looking to see if the manual says if it is counter threaded. My intake and exhaust cams do look like the ones post above, so hopefully they are correct.

I have plenty of buffing to do in the meantime.

Thanks to all and sorry for the delay, my dog passed away on the 7th and money is tight.

[RRoller123]

The hell with the bolt, I am sorry to hear about your dog. Hope he didn't suffer. Dogs are the best companions on earth, imho.

[SLOSpider]

Sorry to hear about your buddy.

The vise grips on the belt is what I do (when Im replacing it that is). Do you have an air/electric impact gun? If so just use that with the vice grip on the pulley and give it short little burst and it will come right off. No need to hold down the trigger and have things go flying. Both come out counter clock wise.

Sometimes tapping the head of the bolt with a hammer will help loosen it. Repeating spray with penetrant and tapping. Also if you have some heat, Propane, Map longer lighter will also help, just enough to get it hot not glowing red. Impact is the best way though.

[dmwhiteoak]

The hell with the bolt, I am sorry to hear about your dog. Hope he didn't suffer. Dogs are the best companions on earth, imho.

I'll second that Pete

[4uall]

I am very sorry to hear about your dog

This might help http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7G-adEVjfWI however, it may not be the best method

Better video here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dhnO6fh5kn4

[RRoller123]

Here this may help. Love these dogs. Can't help but make you smile. The clearest proof of the existence of a higher power that one could find.

Pete

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kdJcYTh1rP0

[jimj]

No update on the cam pulley bolt but I have created a new post to show our slow rolling restoration. See Johnson Family - 80 Spider Restoration. Since we could not get the pulley bolt off on our first try I thought it best to let it soak for a while in PB Blaster. I have not done a project car in a long time, I just read my Makita 18 V impact driver has over 1100 foot pounds of torque. I love these new tools wish they were around in the 70s. I will see if it can bust the nut loose tomorrow.

Also for you fellow dog lovers here is a picture of the most athletic dog I ever had in my family, watching him play Frisbee was breath taking. I will miss him for quite some time.

[fiatmike124]

Sorry to hear about the dog Jim. I hate to tell you but that impact gun may be rated at 1100 in lbs...which is only about 92 ft lbs. I hope it works but my guess is you'll just have to extend the breaker bar with a pipe or something and do it by hand. Good luck!