1976 124 Spider increases Idle to 2000 RPM

[btexpress]

I have a 1976 124 Spider with a 1980 2 Liter motor. I had a rotor problem earlier that the forum helped with . Now that I have it running . The dual points have been converted to an electronic ignition system. It starts and idles at about 1000 RPM but after a few (2 or 3) minutes it increases to 2000 RPM on its own. Does not go over that but remains there. I can hit the accelerator and it bogs down to around a 1000 RPM but imidiately goes back to 2000 RPM. It has no power and chokes back if I hit the accelarator. I have changed the Fuel pump (electric old and new) , had the carb rebuilt. Have not replaced the fuel line from the tank to Carb. I am trying to find someone who can check a distributor off the car. My distributor is off the 1976 engine. It has no vacum advance and uses only the weighted advance in the bottom of the distributor. I cleaned and oiled the weights but am thinking they might be causing the increase in RPMs. When it first start it the timing is advanced about 10 degrees ( by timing light) and when the RPMs increases it advances to about 20 degrees. I realize I mentioned two problems here but am first concerned with the increase in RPMs. I have not been able to fine anyone to check the distributor off the car. Any ideas will be appreciated.

[vandor]

It sounds like the choke is not disengaging, and once it is warm it has no power because the mixture is super rich.
Does it have the stock water choke? If so, are the 2 coolant lines connected, and if they are, do they get hot once the engine is warmed up?

[btexpress]

Yes it has the water heated choke. The lines get warm like they should. The only thing I would mention is there are two marks (lines) on the choke housing that according to the manual should be in line. This make the choke plate in the carb completely closed and I turned the housing where the choke plate in the carb was slightly open. Before when I had the marks lined up I had trouble getting the car started with the choke plate completely closed. At the same time I was trying to figure out the timing problem. I will put the marks on the choke housing back in line in the morning. That will be easy to check. Thanks...I will let you know if that solves the problem.

[So Cal Mark]

besides the crummy water heated choke issue, I've seen those distributors stick with the advance weights stuck fully advanced. Usually this occurs after running at high rpm for awhile, then when you slow down the timing is fully advanced and that will raise the rpm

[btexpress]

Is it possible to put a vac advance on a distributor that has only the weighted advance? I might be better off getting a used distributor with the vac advance on it already. Better yet a new one if I can afford it. This is slightly off topic of vac/centrificial advance but if I have my crank timing marks TDC and the cam pullys are on their timing mark can I pull the distributor out and turn it (so my plug wires don't rub on the hood) just as long as the rotor is pointing at #4 on the inside of the distributor cap ? My distributor runs of the cam on the passenger side.