Just died! Got fuel and spark though.

[whiterabbit]

Wife called and said the Fiat died going down the road today. I got home and it has a hot spark, good fuel at the pressure regulator so the pump didn't die and the ignition is good. I'm thinking the bosh injection relays gave up the ghost.
Any hint to trouble shoot?

[Danno]

You may be right, but I'd be more inclined to think that the real problem is that you let your wife drive your fiat.

[So Cal Mark]

the relay merely supplies power to the injectors and pump, so check for power at both places. Since it's injected I'd check the air intake hose first

[whiterabbit]

LOL! It's her car! I'm just the dumb grease monkey that keeps it screaming down the road.
I thought the pump might not be running but I pulled the cover off the air flow sensor and closed the contacts and the pump started humming away. Pulled the line at the fuel rail and I have plenty of pressure and fuel.
Pulled the air hose and it's clear.
Isn't there an inline fuse hiding somewhere that feeds the relays and injectors? Hard to remember but isn't it a brown/yellow wire??
I just hate buying the relay and find out it was a freak'n fuse.
Oh, that was one PO'd wife waiting for a tow truck along side the road! WHEW!

[spider2081]

If you are confident you have no intake air leaks, you have spark, and the fuel pump is running, I would rotate the crankshaft till the timing marks are lined up top dead center and look at the cam gear timing through the peak holes on the back side of the metal timing belt covers. The little hole in the cam gears has to be lined up with the index on the cam housings.

If the fuel pump is running the in line fuse has to be good unless someone has modified your wiring. The fuse is located behind the instrument cluster it has brown/white wires on it. The fuel injectors should have power in start and run. The ECU supplies the ground for the injector to pulse on and off.

[rlux4]

What Mark suggested is to check the boot, not for a plug, but for any air leak. Was it tight when you disconnected it? Check it for any splits. As an experiment, once you get it running, loosen the boot, wiggle it to allow an air gap and watch how quickly your engine dies.
"Borrow" a noid light from Autozone or some such supply house with a loaner program and check that your injectors are getting pulse signal.
Ron

[whiterabbit]

Checked the rubber air boot. It's ok, didn't see any cracks when I flexed it. I finally found my injector noid light. ZIP.NADA,NOTHING at the injector.
Cranks great but not a hint of the engine lighting up. Wife said she was cruising along and it just died.
The relays look original, it's got a fresh thermo time sensor and all new ignition. Injectors were pro cleaned about a year ago.
Haven't had any problems with the car for about a year since I redid the ignition.
WOW! Just looked at the prices for that dual relay! Can you get them at NAPA or use a generic subsitute? Ouch! (yea, I'm a cheap SOB)

[rlux4]

Before you spring for a new dual relay it wouldn't hurt to check the connection of the brown wire with white stripe at the negative post of the coil. It sends spark signal to the ECU which then controls injector pulsing. Then you can diagnose your relay with this; http://www.wcmotors.com/personal/Fiat%2 ... agnostics/
I once got a dual relay from a local auto parts store for $69. Since then they've been bought out by NAPA and they say they don't have it anymore. You could probably find one by posting in parts wanted.
Ron

[So Cal Mark]

I'd make sure you're getting power from the ignition switch to the relay

[azruss]

remember there is an in-line fuse behind the instrument cluster that adds power to the dual relay. if that is bad, you are SOL

[whiterabbit]

The inline fuse. Is it the one in the orange holder that the ends unscrew? The fuel pump relay does click when I move the AFM and the pump kicks on.

[Danno]

If you are confident you have no intake air leaks, you have spark, and the fuel pump is running, I would rotate the crankshaft till the timing marks are lined up top dead center and look at the cam gear timing through the peak holes on the back side of the metal timing belt covers. The little hole in the cam gears has to be lined up with the index on the cam housings.

If the fuel pump is running the in line fuse has to be good unless someone has modified your wiring. The fuse is located behind the instrument cluster it has brown/white wires on it. The fuel injectors should have power in start and run. The ECU supplies the ground for the injector to pulse on and off.

Just wondering if you ever did verify that you didn't skip a tooth on your belt. timing could throw junk out of whack in an instant like that.

[rlux4]

If the fuel pump runs when the AFM flap is opened then the inline fuse must be passing the power coming from the ignition switch through the brown with white stripe wire.
The color of the fuse holder can vary, mine was red. It didn't make consistent contact with the fuse so I'd loose that signal at the dual relay and the fuel pump would be shut down. I replaced it with a normal AGC type inline fuse holder.
If you haven't done so yet you need to (1) check your valve timing as Danno suggested and your ignition timing. (2) Check that your injectors are getting pulse signal, and (3) go through the diagnostic at the link I posted earlier. You'll find the problem and then it'll no doubt be an easy fix.
Ron

[chuckcloutier]

Bad ignition switch can cause this.

[jimmycakes401]

I know it's been a while, but was this problem fixed? Having a similar problem.