Speedo cable issues

[Danno]

My speedo stopped working. I thought maybe I had it plugged in poorly when I had the dash apart trying to mess with my Tach. Turns out that the end of the cable is broken. I can see the wire turning, but the little square tongue on the end has come off of the cable. Easy fix, or replace the entire cable? I can't see an easy way to get the end back onto the wire.

[manoa matt]

Just buy a new one, they are around $20. If you try to fix it, it will take more than an hour and could possibly break again. Your time and piece of mind are worth $20 right?

Matt

[mbouse]

that is where the cable usually breaks, right at the tip on the speedometer end. and I THINK this is the end with the plastic keeper?

please note that there is an easy installation method not commonly shared.... which is as follows:

1. disconnect both ends of the outer casing but do not remove the casing from the car.

2. pull the broken cable from the casing and discard. note that you should be able to remove the inner cable from one end only.

3. remove the inner cable from the NEW assembly, being careful not to get it dirty. lightly lubricate the new cable with lithium grease.

4. thread the new cable into the existing casing still on the vehicle.

5. insert the ends carefully into the tranny & speedo & secure the casing ends.

note that this is only valid if the outer casing from the old speedo is intact, and not worn, kinked or abrated. there is no need to swap out casings if you are sure the old casing is o.k. this saves a lotta time threading the old casing out of the firewall, then out of the engine compartment....then reversing the entire procedure for the new casing.

[Danno]

Mike, the outer casing LOOKS ok on the portion I can see in the dash. i haven't followed the length of it yet, so the dx on it is premature at this point. Should I be able to keep the housing/casing, whatever it's called, where do I buy the inner cable. So far I've sourced the following:

Vicks: 16.95 appears to be whole dealio.... No listing for inner cable only

IAP: 16.95 also appears to be whole dealio...No listing for inner cable only

bruces: couldn't find

Midwest: 16.00 for complete (will the ones he has listed as inner cable work? those are 4 bucks but where the assembly is listed for the spider 2000, these are listed for spider 124 (no production dates noted) making me think Jon is differentiating between the 2000s and 124s)

Obert: 32.50 whole thing. No listing for inner cable only.

[mbouse]

i don't know if it is possible to buy just the inner cable. to the best of my knowledge, everyone supplies the entire assembly.

my point was that it is unnecessary to remove the outer sleeve from the car JUST because you broke a cable tip. repair time is 1/10th that of a complete replacement if you follow my recommendation. don't forget to take the old broken tip out of the speedometer.

i'd send Jon an email and inquire: parts@midwest124.com maybe he has something I am unaware of in this matter. please let me know what you find out.

also, there is a difference between the 2000 & the older speedometers. older cars had a threaded end at the speedo. newer cars had a clamp on plastic fitting at the speedo end.

[Danno]

Thanks Mike, I figured I could only get the assembly, but then that stuff on Jon's page threw me for a loop. I'll send him off an email.

[So Cal Mark]

any real auto parts store carries a universal inner cable. You cut to length and crimp on the end. They cost about $5

[mbouse]

thanks Mark! I never knew that. I love a day when i learn something NEW!!

[Danno]

thanks Mark! I never knew that. I love a day when i learn something NEW!!

Mike, you should pack up your stuff and head home. I'd hate for your head to explode if you learn something else today!

[Danno]

I just took the Friat for a quick spin and I COULD tell how fast I was going. Took my 2 minutes to fix it by just replacing the inner cable with a new one thanks to Jon L (Midwest124). Thanks for the tip Mike on saving time by just replacing the inner cable.

i noticed a "design improvement" with the newer cable that I used. The old cable had a squared end on the speedo drive end, and a round end on the other side that had a square metal "piece" on it.. The new cable has squared ends on both ends with a little plastic washer to keep the cable from shrinking back into the outer sheath (does that make any sense?). This means that it's less likely for the cable to fail (i hope). Just a quick piece of maybe useful information if anybody ever has to go through it....

[Danno]

For what it's worth here is a picture of the piece that fell off of the original speedometer cable:

[So Cal Mark]

it looks so lonely sitting there by itself. Probably wasn't crimped onto the cable very well

[Danno]

it looks so lonely sitting there by itself. Probably wasn't crimped onto the cable very well

It's My understanding that these were not "crimped" onto the cable. the cable itself isn't conducive to crimping as it seems to be some tightly woven wires with a springy "wound" wire surrounding it. If you were to crimp this end it would flatten out and have difficulty spinning at the speedometer. As I tried this as a fix I can tell you that it will stick and then jump and then stick and jump. until finally the crimp breaks free, despite your best attempts to get a good crimp on it. Crimp was the method I tried after solder, which wouldn't hold properly despite my best attempt to clean the lubricant off the wire and this piece.

[So Cal Mark]

they're crimped in a square die, not crimped flat

[Danno]

they're crimped in a square die, not crimped flat

Say what? Not that piece you see there. the wire only extends into that round base. SO, unless they NEVER crimped mine on, then that wasn't the problem.