Removing all possible emission controls

[bberry]

Some better pics-Cheap oil guage and works very well.

[steve8462]

you'd better post that pic. I'm having a hard time picturing something large enough on the intake manifold that you could put a filter on it.
Your brake booster is still hooked-up, I assume?[/quote]

here is the picture, its the little cone shaped breather on the right. i took it off and plugged it and the car stalled????

[PurpleSpider]

I'm beginning to get my 78 back on the road and this is one of the must do items. Next will be a new carburetor and shock towers...will be an interesting winter.

[So Cal Mark]

plugging the crankcase breather is a really bad idea, it will cause oil leaks from every gasket you can imagine

[RRoller123]

Mark, help me understand how this system works, on an FI ENGINE, as we have no PCV Valve. My understanding is that the "breather" we are discussing in the pic below is actually a misnomer for an FI engine, as there is no actual separate fresh air source intake for the crankcase. The system (that steve8462 plugged) on an FI engine, just allows built up pressure from blow-by to be vented back to the intake. As in the non FI engines, plugging it would allow pressure from blow-by to build up, with bad consequences.

And filling the crankcase too high with oil allows too much oil mist to enter the system and fouls the FI intake. I have seen this firsthand. I tend to use a little extra oil in my car (4-1\2 to 4-3\4 qts), as it seems to like it, but if I go up to 5 qts, a very small amount of oil slowly makes its way up to the intake Manifold and coats it with a slight film.

Have I got this right

[So Cal Mark]

if you look at the Fiat manual, it has a diagram of the ventilation system. They use that single hose as a ventilation system, allowing air to flow both ways.

[RRoller123]

Ah, so the vacuum present at the Intake end must be overridden by the switching pressures of the pistons oscillating back and forth, with the net result that the crankcase fumes inch out towards the intake to be burned. The flow must be fairly low, and I have always wondered why an overfill of oil would allow any to get up to the intake, it being significantly higher than the crankcase separator. Likely because it is in mist form at this point.

[TwinFast]

Hey Guys,

This thread was really helpfull when i start removing all the uneeded plugs.

Anyway,i am still looking for an elegant solution for the big hole on the top of the exhaust manifold. Is there any clean solution or should i use arc welding ?

[superbenk]

Hey Guys,

This thread was really helpfull when i start removing all the uneeded plugs.

Anyway,i am still looking for an elegant solution for the big hole on the top of the exhaust manifold. Is there any clean solution or should i use arc welding ?

You can plug this hole with a M18x1.50 oil drain plug (leave out the plastic o-ring or replace with a steel or copper washer):

[carl]

You can pick up a better sounding exhaust note and some extra horsepower by getting rid of that 4-1 exhaust manifold and down pipe and installing a 4-2-1 manifold and downpipe from an earlier spider. Also, if you have not done it yet, you can delete one of the two sets of points in the dizzy, and run a wire from the one set of points direct to the dizzy. Cleans up more wiring. Set the timing at 10 degrees instead of zero and you should have a nice running spider.

If you want to really clean up the fuel line rats nest to the extreme you can do like I do and remove everything except for two hoses, a supply line from the tank to the carb and a gas tank vent hose from one of the three vent nipples on the tank to atmosphere.....welcome to the 1950s!

[TwinFast]

You can plug this hole with a M18x1.50 oil drain plug (leave out the plastic o-ring or replace with a steel or copper washer):

Done !
ThanX

... If you want to really clean up the fuel line rats nest to the extreme you can do like I do and remove everything except for two hoses, a supply line from the tank to the carb and a gas tank vent hose from one of the three vent nipples on the tank to atmosphere.....welcome to the 1950s!

Yes I do. Do you have a link to a the right procedure if exist ?

For the timing, i'm about to start everething form a scratch. Since the engine is on the floor during the body/paint job this could be easier ...

[carl]

No link to doing the hose mod it's rather self explanatory. I made a plug with a short piece of fuel line for the return fitting on the carb and the gas tank ( a bolt shank clamped in the short fuel line plug). For the vent on the gas tank I plugged two of the vent spigots and ran a hose from the middle one and out the trunk. I did make the vent hose longer than needed so I could make a loop in it and zip tie the loop to the filler neck to get some height on it. I even stuck a fuel filter in it to keep the fumes back a bit. Email me and I'll send you pics if you want.

carlfriedman@verizon.net.

[Fiatlanta]

Some better pics-Cheap oil guage and works very well.

Having a hard time getting oriented on this pic...can you give a little more explanation?

[carl]

This is a view of the oil filter housing looking down from the top. The alternator which sits above this housing is removed and that long bolt is the pivot bolt for the alternator. I have installed many Sunpro oil gauges and they work great. Usually the sending unit for the low oil pressure light is plumbed into this threaded hole. There is an identical threaded port on the front of this housing with a threaded plug in it. remove the plug, relocate the idiot light sending unit into the port and install the pressure gauge where the light unit was. Just be sure to get the proper metric adaptor.

[Fiatlanta]

This is a view of the oil filter housing looking down from the top. The alternator which sits above this housing is removed and that long bolt is the pivot bolt for the alternator. I have installed many Sunpro oil gauges and they work great. Usually the sending unit for the low oil pressure light is plumbed into this threaded hole. There is an identical threaded port on the front of this housing with a threaded plug in it. remove the plug, relocate the idiot light sending unit into the port and install the pressure gauge where the light unit was. Just be sure to get the proper metric adaptor.

Ah yeah, I can see it now.

I have an original oil pressure gauge already installed...think I'll try to finish that project up now.

Thanks!