Removing all possible emission controls

[bberry]

On my 78 the compressor was removed and now I want to clean up the engine bay by removing all related parts not needed. I am sure many have done this. Detailed info on what and where located would be great. Pictures would also be a big help. I am sure there are many people who want to do this.

[vandor]

You can remove the EGR piping that runs from the exhaust to the intake manifold. You can either plug the holes with the existing nuts welded shut, or buy a plug with the same size threads. The first place to look is in the oil drain plug section of your local parts store.

You can removed the rubber tubes that ran from the air pump to the head, and also the air injection manifold in the head. We and other vendors sell plugs to plug the holes in the head.

There are 2 vacuum/electric valves on the left inner fender, you can get rid of those too.

[blurple124]

First of all, I apologize for the excessive amount of pictures. I just took my emissions off of my '78, but have yet to remove the wiring for everything, so I am hoping that another member will have already done that and will help both of us out on that front. This post should help with the plumbing side of things.

Okay, this first picture is a handy diagram of the emissions system which may or may not be of use to you.



As you can see in this next picture, there is quite a bit of crap on these cars to meet regulation....
taking the heat shield off was a matter of preference. It really doesn't hurt to leave it on.



Exhaust gas re-circulation. I have not been able to get the fitting out of my exhaust manifold...seems very stuck. Hopefully you have better luck.



Piping for the system from exhaust to intake:


Air pump:


Somebody will have to chime in for the right word on this one, but it is a valve for the air injection system:



EGR Valve:



Three-way connection (one to intake, one from EGR, one to/from charcoal canister)


Canister:


And finally the air injection system:





When you take the injectors out of the head, you will have holes that need plugging. You can find these at some of the vendors (Auto Ricambi carries them), I have an extra set, and you can find them at McMaster Carr here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3076/=hhvfnk Part number is: 99642A205


Good luck! FYI, be on the lookout for someone to speak up on the wiring, because that is a lot of it.

[tartan18]

I have also removed all the emission plumbing from my 1975 and I am now wanting to remove all unnecessary wiring. Looking forward to advice on this step. Of the seven relays in my car I know by looking at the wiring diagrams that several of them are no longer needed and I hope that the few that are needed (horn) can be more neatly arranged. Yeah, I know ... I have a major case of obsessive/compulsive disorder That said, I really would like to hear from folks who have cleaned up the engine bay wiring situation.

[maytag]

.....and I am now wanting to remove all unnecessary wiring. Looking forward to advice on this step. Of the seven relays in my car I know by looking at the wiring diagrams that several of them are no longer needed and I hope that the few that are needed (horn) can be more neatly arranged. Yeah, I know ... I have a major case of obsessive/compulsive disorder That said, I really would like to hear from folks who have cleaned up the engine bay wiring situation.

I wanted to do the same thing.... it turned into me gutting all the wiring. I pulled every wire out.... figured I had some time, since I can't seem to get the correct parts for my motor in a decent amount of time ....

I should never have done this. It's too big a job to take-on right at the beginning of DRIVING WEATHER!
however: I'm nearing completion now. I've only got the turn-signal circuit to get through, and I'll hopefully find some time to work on that tomorrow. Everything else is done. I've moved to a modern ATC fuse block, with all new relays powering nearly everything that takes more than an amp or two.

[bberry]

Thanks to everyone. I spent a few hours on it today and have most of it off. A lot of the hoses were in rough shape and must have been leaking. My bet is it will run better. All new front seals, timing belt and a few more goodies are ordered and should be installed in a week or so.

[RRoller123]

@ Tartan18: Like you I wanted to get rid of some of the rat's nest under/behind the dash. I found that there was power window wiring in place even though there are no power windows (probably just part of the standard harness, makes sense) and there was door/seatbelt chime and a couple of other superfluous wires hanging about. I was probably able to pull close to 20 feet of unnecessary wiring out and it really simplified things under there. Well worth the effort!

Pete

[tartan18]

Thanks gentlemen. With your encouragement I am going to start eliminating unneeded relays and their associated wiring one by one. The worse that can happen is I remove something needed but I can add that back. I have already installed relays to take all the amps off the ignition switch and a relay for the wiper motor.

[blurple124]

.....and I am now wanting to remove all unnecessary wiring.

I've moved to a modern ATC fuse block, with all new relays powering nearly everything that takes more than an amp or two.

One (or both) of you should go more in depth in another thread. I am seriously considering re-doing the wiring in my car and would love to learn from the experiences of others. Maytag, I know you have kind of started a post already. I would love to hear more details and see more pics!

[124JOE]

[bberry]

Vandor, Blurple,
Thanks again for the descriptions and pics. They were a big help. I could not have done it with out those. The engine bay looks so much cleaner now with all the controls gone. My bet is that they were so old that they were not working anyway. Not sure how much any of the system works without the compressor working. Hope this helped others also, I will post a pic of the bay once the engine is put back together.
Bberry

[blurple124]

Vandor, Blurple,
Thanks again for the descriptions and pics. They were a big help.

Glad to hear it!

I just realized that I missed one picture, so I will post it here in case anyone in the future is looking at this thread for similar advice.


This is the fast idle test button, I believe.

[bberry]

I have removed the vapor canister and blocked the hose to the carb. Does the line going back to the tank need to be blocked or does the tank need a vent to allow air into the tank to displace the gas as it is used?

[geert]

I have removed the vapor canister and blocked the hose to the carb. Does the line going back to the tank need to be blocked or does the tank need a vent to allow air into the tank to displace the gas as it is used?

good question. I blocked it. I believe there is a 3-way valve near the tank that should take care of it either way , but I'm curious about the answer. And what about the fuel/vapor lines up to the fuel tank ?

[bberry]

Bump back to top on tank vent question about the line going back from the canister.
Was the tank vented in some other way to have air displace gas as it is used? If we block that canister line will it cause a vacuum in the tank and a problem for the pumps to supply fuel?