1975 with brake issues

[noKYspider]

Hi all,

I'm going to look at my second Spider tomorrow and this one also has brake issues. From what I was told today the car has been sitting for several years in a warehouse as part of a guy's collection. The guy told me the car's brakes are locked up but that he thinks the rest of the car is in good shape. My question is what would cause the brakes to lock up from just sitting in a warehouse that is dry aside from humidity? Could it be from rusting? Something with the rubber lines collapsing? Maybe a master cylinder problem? What should I look for tomorrow specifically in the brake system? Any other things I should specifically be on the look out for? Thanks for whatever info and advice you might have.

[maytag]

rust.
Most people don't realize that brake fluid (at least DOT 3-types) are VERY hygroscopic, meaning they absorb water, and can suck the moisture right out of the atmosphere.
So you park a car with old brake fluid for any real length of time and that moisture goes to work on the steel parts, rubber seals, etc etc.

Not to mention the age-cracking & rot that can go on at the boots in the calipers.

I would not be afraid of this, but I would recommend a thorough renovation of the brakes of ANY spider you buy with unknown providence / history. I would recommend planning to rebuild all 4 calipers (not expensive, if you DIY) new pads, new soft-lines (I recommend the braided-steel, as opposed to rubber) and a complete flush.

[noKYspider]

What kind of price am I looking at to completely restore the system? I am not afraid to do the work myself but haven't attempted a project like this before.

[noKYspider]

Also, the car I'm looking at comes with a parts car.

[CajunMike]

To replace the whole system except for the booster you may be looking at about $400 if you upgrade to the ss lines. This includes new rotors, pads, lines, master cylinder, and caliper kits to replace seals. If you have to replace a caliper it may be a little more. It's not terribly expensive and should be factored in a restoration anyway.

[So Cal Mark]

plan on rebuilding/replacing all 4 calipers along with all of the brake lines and the master cylinder. To do less you will be dealing with brake issues constantly. The rotors may be rusted also, and they may be able to be resurfaced, but new rotors aren't very expensive. We charge about $800 to rebuild/replace all 4 calipers, replace the master cylinder, replace all of the hoses with braided steel and replace the rotors with stock replacements. Drilled or slotted rotors would be an add-on

[noKYspider]

I went to look at the car today and here's the rundown. I'd definitely appreciate any thoughts and / or advice you might have.

• •$2500 for car with title and parts car with no title
  •Brakes are locked up
  •Car wouldn't start or turn over
  °Owner thought it was a starter problem and was willing to get the car running for the $2500 price
  •Electrical system worked except for wipers
  •Surface rust on the trunk lid, some on driver's door, some on driver's quarter panel top near antenna
  •Didn't see much rust on the floors or in the trunk
  •Saw a receipt that said the car was undercoated in 1990
  •Interior looked in good shape
  •Top was acceptable but the rear window was dirty and I don't know if it will clean

The car was the classic "ran when parked" type car and the last registration I saw in the glovebox was from 2005. That being said, the owner has a big car collection and is selling a bunch of cars off. The guy is willing to get the primary car running for the $2500 the cars are marked at now and said he might even do the brakes depending on his mechanic's workload. So, that's what I know after looking at it. Again, any thoughts you have would be much appreciated. I'll see if I can get some photos up in the next few minutes.

[TulsaSpider]

I think you might be able to talk him down a bit! I concur anyone who gets a Spider should plan to completely overhaul the braking system. Safety is number one and the braking system on these is marginal even when working correctly

[noKYspider]

Here are some photos. The one from today is only the green car if the photos end up switching to a red car.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/79353296@N04/

[TulsaSpider]

Don't forget to inspect the shock towers for rust

[So Cal Mark]

the fact he's willing to get it running and repair the brakes makes it sound like a decent deal

[ga.spyder]

I agree with Mark..if he will get it running and do the brakes for the $2500.I definitely wouldnt pull the trigger until you drive it.Are you looking for an immediate driver ,or a project?I have people contact me thru FLU all the time for advice on buying a Spider.I always tell them to buy the nicest example,with the fewest isuues, they can afford.You will always come out money ahead in the long run.

[spidernut]

Only because you'd be getting both cars, I'd agree that it is a fair deal. There's sufficient rust in unlikely places that you will need to carefully look at the floor pans front and back, trunk and (of course) shock towers. Take a fairly weak magnet to all the lower rocker panels and look for areas where rust may have been repaired with body filler (the magnet won't stick). It is definitely a project car.

For comparison, I bought a 1980 Spider, fuel injection, 5 speed, all new interior including door panels, new front and rear seat upholstery, console covers (2), new solid walnut wood for the dash and carpet. It also had a rebuilt differential, new rear break calipers, new brake pads, new rear brake lines, new panhard rod, new trailing arms, nearly new tires, and a pile of extra parts. Total cost? I paid $1,500 and it was transported for free to my home. The car passed emissions with flying colors and runs quite nice. The guy had receipts for $3,800 in new parts.

That's the thing about these cars. You can put a ton of money into them if you're not careful and/or don't do the work yourself (if you're a competent home mechanic). There are many deals in California for rust-free versions of the Spider. It might be worth the flight out! Here are some others out here for price comparison.

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/2993115654.html
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/2998257799.html
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/2996828307.html
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/2965326636.html
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/cto/2968458416.html

[noKYspider]

Thanks for the thoughts and advice to expand my search. I'm going to drive a 77 Spider tomorrow (my first test drive) and hope to look at the 75 again tomorrow too. What other problems should I expect from an engine that hasn't been started in 5-7 years?

[dmwhiteoak]

Lets just hope she will run. If you get that that far on the first start up your doing good. The only thing I would be conserned with would be carb issues. After that I would give her a major tune up and rebuild the carb, then plan on replacing all rubber components.