oil type ?

[grittracing]

I am using rotella T 15w/40 my head has been rebuilt, the oil pan has been dropped and the cleaned out when i changed the gasket all last year and regular oil changes. fram Oil filter but my oil still seems more dirty than my newer car with higher milage.mid grade fuel at least 98,no knocks or ticking just wondering, what am i doing wrong or am i just over worring

[So Cal Mark]

oil dillution occurs from combustion leaks into the crankcase

[4uall]

This helped keep mine clean, along with the fuel & jets etc.

Reply with quoteEdit postReport this postRe: Seafoam
by 4uall on Wed Mar 21, 2012 11:30 am

I have some on standby for this weekend. I have spoken to a lot of people and like everything else some are pro and some are con. My car is 32 yrs old so I have no issues giving it a try in both the gas and oil. Here is a good video I found http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zt_oXKxe3wo and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DjXViwb97qc I'll post after I have completed

[DUCeditor]

Oil is a recurring subject on every motorhead forum. My take is that on a new motor using any reputable make of the right grade is all that matters -- and, of course, keeping the level up and the changes on schedule.

But with my 120,000+ mile, 35 years old, Spider I am even less fussy. She leaks oil and, to a far lesser degree, burns it. I use 15-50 or heavier, change it once a year or so (Told you I wasn't fussy!) and add viscosity thickener (good old STP!) when the Summer temperatures start to climb.

Why the later? Heavier viscosity oil burns less and better cushions and protects the already-worn main bearings.

I'm sure there are a million arguments against this approach. But it has kept my motor running pretty much trouble free for the 24 years I've owned her. Indeed she has never had a motor-based failure. To me that's "case closed."