Today, what was supposed to be a simple ajustment became a real disappointment. My driver's door has a good play in the upper section. I though it was the inner bolt that was coming loose. But nope, it wasn't that easy, here's a look :
All the tears are in the upper section. You can see that the lower is beginning, we can see stress lines from the holes. The question... Is it fixable or do I need another door? Is it economically sound or should I find a used one to be repainted? My father is a welder and he doesn't want to do this. Too thin, might fracture elsewhere. Rusty too... Even my father is letting me down... Any thought to cheer me up on this one? Some Mighty Putty maybe...?
Metal fatigue
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- Patron 2022
- Posts: 4211
- Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2008 8:32 pm
- Your car is a: 1982 2000 Spider
- Location: Granite Falls, Wa
Re: Metal fatigue
Mike Bouse did a tech article about repairing this issue. You'll find it here:
http://flumichigan.italiancarclub.com/T ... repair.pdf
Ron
http://flumichigan.italiancarclub.com/T ... repair.pdf
Ron
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- Posts: 3959
- Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 2:14 am
- Your car is a: 1980 124 spider
- Location: Naramata B.C.
Re: Metal fatigue
It can be rebuilt/fixed. The link Ron gave you helped me in a door repair I had to do on a car last year. I had a spare door that had alot of rust along the bottom but the hinge area was good, so I cut out the entire section of both doors and welded in the best we could the good section. Ground down the welds and a coat of paint and full disclosure when I sold it and all was good.
Lined up just fine.
Chris
Lined up just fine.
Chris
80 FI spider
72 work in progress
2017 Golf R ( APR Stg. 1)
2018 F350 crew long box
72 work in progress
2017 Golf R ( APR Stg. 1)
2018 F350 crew long box
Re: Metal fatigue
Thanks for the link Ron, it will help me out! Very glad I won't need to change the full door. And I see it's a common problem. Both doors must be plagued by this problem. But since the driver's door is much more used, that's why it's where it's find most of the time. If only I knew all this BEFORE I remove the door, I will have some marks to align when I'll reinstall... Thanks to all. Papa is going to give me a welder crash course this week-end! (And he doesn't know it yet! )
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- Patron 2022
- Posts: 4211
- Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2008 8:32 pm
- Your car is a: 1982 2000 Spider
- Location: Granite Falls, Wa
Re: Metal fatigue
Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.
Ron
Ron
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- Posts: 3959
- Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 2:14 am
- Your car is a: 1980 124 spider
- Location: Naramata B.C.
Re: Metal fatigue
Yes. marks do help. Green tape on both sides and mark, sure make the installation of the door easier. Also helps prevent prangs when installing.
80 FI spider
72 work in progress
2017 Golf R ( APR Stg. 1)
2018 F350 crew long box
72 work in progress
2017 Golf R ( APR Stg. 1)
2018 F350 crew long box
Re: Metal fatigue
Here's the door $100 later from the hands of a GOOD welder. Very glad of what he did. I'm less to get it back on the car. As you said, not an easy one. And I even chiped off some paint because of that! Nothing serious but when you know it's there... It's almost perfect but needs to much force too close. I'll take it to a paint shop to adjust it if I can't do it.
Re: Metal fatigue
Yes, compare it with the first picture. The guy even took time to repaint the area he had to open to do the welds. So we can't see very much from it's work. I'll finish it with a bit of putty when I'll get the original paint.