7 holes dashboard

[babu2001]

Me again! I've found a couple of weeks ago this picture of a '85 Spider dashboard. http://dl.dropbox.com/u/52289338/7_holes.jpg As you can see, there's is two gauges at right but also two in the center. So, it will make 7 holes. Does anyone knows where to find this dashboard or do you think it's a homemade one? Yes, I want 7 holes because I'm planning to install a turbo and I HATE the on dash turbo boost gauge. Looks pretty, isn't it? By the way, is it possible to find a plain dashboard without holes? I'm worried about the woodgrain. I want it to look like genuine... If I decide to make one, which wood is the best? Here's a picture of my own dashboard : http://dl.dropbox.com/u/52289338/dashboard.jpg Thanks to all for your advices!

[babu2001]

Mmmmmmm, I didn't expect it will be a tough one...

[So Cal Mark]

if you look at the small space between gauges you'll find it's difficult to make that piece with any strength. We use a laminate in our dashes to prevent warpage

[babu2001]

Thanks for the reply Mark. When you say laminate, is it a small veneer or something like that on which you glue a sheet of the wood ordered or is it only sheets of the wood desired glued together?

[So Cal Mark]

it's a veneer, the overall thickness is the same as the original dash wood

[babu2001]

Thanks Mark, I think I'll try it myself on this one. It will be a good occasion to finally use my router table... I'll reinforced the middle section with a layer of fiberglass. Just in case because the holes will be so close in the middle. I'll post some pics when it's done (summer project).

[RRoller123]

Check out these guys; http://www.veneersupplies.com

Their veneers are solid, not paper backed. Just a tip: When using non-paperbacked veneers, place a layer of wax paper or plastic wrap over the veneer top in the press to keep any glue bleed-through from adhering to the press caul. This isn't necessary with paper-backed veneer, but is necessary with these non-paperbacked veneers. The glue comes through a little bit, just in tiny pinhole form and is easily sanded smooth. You won't notice it, but it will adhere to the caul if no protective layer is used.

Their prices are acceptable, but the great thing is that they show a photo of the actual veneer lot (top sheet only if multiple sheets, but they are all from the same flitch) that is up for sale, not just a stock picture. You can pick through many lots to get exactly what you want. I just received a lot of Madrone Burl that will become my dash this Spring.

[babu2001]

Thanks for the link. That's what I was looking for. Is it or not a good idea to use the old dash as a veneer? (With a pass in the planer of course )

[RRoller123]

Yes, good idea, just ensure that it is fully roughed up so you get good adhesion. 3/4" cabinet grade plywood or MDF (nice 'an flat is the key) and a bunch of clamps make a good press for these applications. I am as yet unsure what I will do with the edges, but I think a little paint in a matching basic color to the veneer will do nicely. I have been going back and forth with a fellow cabinetmaker about pre-staining or pre-sealing the veneer before pressing to minimize the glue pinholes. He says no, and has been doing it that way for 35 years, so I do tend to listen to him! You need to sand the veneer assembly anyway after pressing, so I think he is probably right.

[babu2001]

Just a last one on this subject. Which glue is the best for this usage? White, yellow, contact...?

[RRoller123]

We use yellow. Tightbond #2. The #3 is terrible, too runny. We only use #3 for water resistant/outdoor applications, and usually not even then. It also dries with an awful color. For veneering, it is critical that the entire area be covered uniformly and thinly. I glop it on and use a spreader to get it even and thin. Voids will cause problems, like lifting, chipping, etc. I just did my center console, I will take a quick pic when I get it out of the press.