Lay the new top over bows and slide stiffeners under rear body bar pulling the top taut from side to side. Push bar down as far as possible and tighten the bolts, starting from the center and working to the outside.
Slip the top over the front bow and glue the top to the bow using a good fabric cement or any good contact cement such as Wilhold Contact Cement available at most hardware stores. - In this step the instructions from IAP asks that you glue the top at the front bow, the instructions from Chris Obert's installation guide mentions that you can go either way. In our case we decided NOT to glue the front. It allowed us to validate install and remove the front to do some additional fitting. For example, we noticed that the strip of foam on the front bow was in pieces and when the new top went in place you could tell the places where the foam was gone or bent out of shape. We took the top off the front bow, cleaned the old foam strip and used double face tape (1/2" wide) to replace it. Again, forgot to take a photo of it, but this is where the tape was placed. The bow has an indent all across so it is easy to see where it goes. We just installed it flush with the border.
Lift top halfway up and pull cable through the top by tying the string to the cable. - The top that Frank got had a cord/string to fish the cable... I was not that lucky, we had to use a cloth hanger to insert it and then taped the cable and pulled it through.
Fasten top into position and glue remainder bow covering into place. Also glue quarter pads around rear bow and quarter window glue strip. - This we left till the end... But something cool that Frank did was to install velcro on his... so instead of having to glue the top to the bows, his just wraps around with bow and is fixed in place with velcro. Pretty neat... I, on the other hand, had to glue those in place.
With the top's front flap wrapped around the front bow we (well, we meaning Frank and me taking photos
) proceeded to install the rubber gasket with the plastic trim and front brackets/clamp down harness/watchamacallits
Slip cable under end of body bar and pull it thru the clip. Pull cable taut and tighten screws.
Replace the rear molding.
Pull inside window flap taut and punch through bracket location in front. Use the bolt and trim washers to hold in position. These are where the rivets were previously. Fasten front and rear of this flap. Replace bracket coverings (cut off bolts if necessary to make brackets lay in the proper position).
I couple of suggestions. Read two links... I found the one from Chris to be the best one, more detailed. The one from IAP was great at providing a quick/high-level understanding of what you need to do. Some highlights: Do not glue the front of the top to the bow, not really needed... the double face tape at the front bow if your foam strip there is gone... back of the top, center the top across the back — the top center is the center of the slots the plastic is pushed into. Measure the center of the car, place a tape, use that to align the rear of the top.
Cables, the ones included with my top were too short... Lowes sells these... we will be replacing Frank's with a longer set as we need a bit more play on the sides to allow the side flaps to come down a bit more.
Do not glue the flaps around the bows until the very end, once you are certain everything is fine. I will be doing that next weekend.
Take a lot of photos of everything BEFORE you remove the first bolt/screw... you will be glad you did. I just can't thank Frank enough... I had not point of reference to install mine. If it was not for having Frank's car as a reference, I would had been toast.
Leave the beer, wine, or hard licor for after the install... stick to espresso while doing this...
If you know you need to recover pieces... get that ahead of time
Don't ask me why... again, I will be finishing mine next weekend because of this. 
I will upload a few more photos as I finish what is left from mine. Ciao!!
