Front wheel movement

[Divers]

Last weekend for the first time, I put my car back down on all four tires to retorque the front steering and suspension. Tightened all the lugs on the tires and then jacked the front end back up so I could paint the engine bay. For whatever reason I grabbed the tire and did the wheel bearing shake test. I found that both tires have the same tiny, but noticable movement. All my bearing are new as is the entire front suspension. My manual says the tire should have VERY LITTLE MOVEMENT? Just how much is normal? If I did not tighten the spindle nut tight enough would this cause the movement? It is only tighten to 5 foot lbs.

???

[124JOE]

are you sure its not the upper control arm wiggling on the pivot bolt
my car dose this also

[azruss]

if tightened to factory specs there will be a very small amount of play. this is for heat growth when running. If it is tight cold, then you have too much pressure on your bearings hot and they will wear very quickly.

[Divers]

It is just a tiny bit of movement.....so I think I am ok.

[So Cal Mark]

there really shouldn't be any noticeable movement, otherwise you will suffer from "knock back" on the caliper piston with the result being a lower than normal brake pedal on the first pump

[Divers]

Mark,

What should I look for? It is a slight rocking when I grab the top and bottom of the tire. I have new bearings etc etc etc. Does the spindle nut effect this? Would not think so, but never hurts to ask. Does not seem to be any movement directly in and out when pulling on the tire.

Thanks

[So Cal Mark]

the spindle nut can affect looseness. I'd lay under the car while someone rocks the wheel, and look for where the play is. It could be ball joints

[Divers]

OK...will do.

Everything is new on the front end so this could be interesting

[124ADDHE]

People can do whatever they want with their wheel bearings and cuss and spit in my direction but i am a firm believer with wheel bearing of this type that after a good packing with grease they you should spin the wheel whilst torquing the spindle nut until there is a noticeable drag that would stop the wheel after a spin in 3-5 turns, then slightly back off the spindle nut to lock in place. the finished 'feel' should be a very slight resistance with NO noticeable movement on the spindle.

works for me.

[RoyBatty]

I have recently run into a situation where my upper A arm bolts were too long on the shank dimension. This allowed the A arms to wiggle on the bolts as they passed thru the body mounts. This may be something to look for if you have installed new A arms.

[Divers]

Ok...so looked into this more. It is the upper a arm moving on the pivot bolt. How do I solve this. Do I need to solve this?

Robert

[So Cal Mark]

definitely need to solve it

[124JOE]

its as if the bolt needs to be bigger diam
but the bushings wont take a bigger bolt

ive thought about using a wedge style shim "witch is only a dream so far"
rubber will wear out
brass seems best IMH

if i get something like that i would need 4 of them

2"long 3/4" wide 1/4 thick tapered down on one side
and curved to the pivot bolt lengthwise

ya i know what you looking at Robert
i drove mine a bit loose it drove better than before i did the lower a arm
best of luck

[Divers]

Going to have to think on this one...will have to take the bolt off. What a pain in the arse!

[dzyfngrs]

So...was it a bad idler arm?