I've been digging through the archives but can't find this info. Seems like I Googled this and it showed up on this forum but I can't find it.
Someone posted where they cut a new clock face from a CD jewel case. Yeah I know you can buy new ones but sounds simple enough. The question is how to do remove the knurled knob that adjusts the time? I'm thinking I need to hold the stem with a pair of small vice grips, then using a pair of plyers unscrew the knob counter clockwise? Does that sound right?
As far as the bezel, I assume I would need to pry the tab up in the slot back with a small flathead screwer and the bezel comes off?
I've had this clock connected to a car battery for almost three weeks to test how good it keeps time and so farit has kept perfect time. This clock came from an 81 model. If I remeber the clock in my 80 model lost about a minute of time per day. It was such a joke I removed it and installed an oil pressure guage in it's place.
Clock knob removal
- Turbofiat124
- Posts: 183
- Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2011 5:18 am
- Your car is a: 1980 Spider 2000 turbo
- Location: Kingsport, TN
- 124JOE
- Posts: 3141
- Joined: Fri Jun 24, 2011 7:11 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 124 fiat spider sport 1800
- Location: SO. WI
Re: Clock knob removal
i think its pressed on
be carfull pull the bezle off and break the old glass
cut a small slit in the new glass and slide it over the adjuster
then reassemble
do you know any one who does stain glass
they could make a glass one for you
be carfull pull the bezle off and break the old glass
cut a small slit in the new glass and slide it over the adjuster
then reassemble
do you know any one who does stain glass
they could make a glass one for you
when you do everything correct people arent sure youve done anything at all (futurama)
ul1joe@yahoo.com 124joe@gmail.com
ul1joe@yahoo.com 124joe@gmail.com
- spidernut
- Posts: 1906
- Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 12:20 am
- Your car is a: 1979 Fiat Spider Automatic
- Location: Lincoln, CA
Re: Clock knob removal
I posted about replacing the lens with a jewel case. I've done three now and they all look fantastic. One is now about 8 years old. I used a cassette tape case on that one.
The bezel must be VERY carefully removed by slightly un-curling the lip on the backside of the bezel. If you rush it or pry too hard, the aluminum bezel will be irreparably damaged. You must use extreme patience and caution. If you take it slow and don't try to pry it away all at once, you'll do just fine. Just work it a little bit at a time as not to damage or distort the front or sides of the metal.
The knob is another story....I personally have never been able to get the knob to separate from the shaft that goes through the clock lens. However, the shaft press fits into a small gear inside the clock mechanism. On three out of three clocks, I had to remove the shaft from the gear by pulling the knob and shaft out of the gear. I found it easier to do with the clock bezel removed and the clock mechanism removed from the white plastic housing. When it is out of the casing, you can see what you're doing so you don't break the gear. There's also a small spring inside that must go back in place correctly. Examine it before removing the shaft.
Once you make and replace the lens, the shaft simply presses back into the gear. As long as you align it right and don't force it, the gear should not crack (I had a donor clock and found this out while experimenting with it). I found that if the gear doesn't fit tight on the shaft, you can put a VERY small dot of super glue on the shaft where it connects to the gear and it holds quite well. Be careful not to glue anything else.
To replace the bezel, put it back over the face of the clock and ensure it is flat against the clock face. Then, I found that it worked best to place a smooth and soft protective cloth down on a countertop, then to roll the clock along the bezel to reshape it to its original shape and tighten it to the plastic casing. Very carefully roll the backside's edge flat to hold it to the clock. Again, be patient and be careful with it and it'll look fine. To protect the backside of the bezel, you can wrap the tip of the screwdriver with a soft cloth. It'll help protect it a bit from any further damage and makes it easier to smooth out any rough edges.
Side note: I had a donor clock I experimented with. Though the knob on that clock appeared to be threaded onto the metal shaft, I could not remove it without breaking the shaft and/or chewing up the knob. I tried threading it off (it does appear to have threads) and it wouldn't budge. I then tried pulling it off. That broke the shaft at the base of the knob. Another guy I met tried the same thing with the same results. I've only had success removing the shaft from the gear.
There may be someone else here who has a secret way of removing the knob differently.
Again, take your time and exercise caution and it should look great. If the clock lens rattles (a CD jewel case is much thinner than the original plastic), you can press the front side of the bezel inward toward the lens using your fingers. Don't use anything else. If it still is too loose or rattles, you can rub a very small spot of clear silicone along a small part of the bezel edge and wipe off any excess.
Hope that helps! Again, if anyone has a way to get the knob off without messing it up...please advise!
The bezel must be VERY carefully removed by slightly un-curling the lip on the backside of the bezel. If you rush it or pry too hard, the aluminum bezel will be irreparably damaged. You must use extreme patience and caution. If you take it slow and don't try to pry it away all at once, you'll do just fine. Just work it a little bit at a time as not to damage or distort the front or sides of the metal.
The knob is another story....I personally have never been able to get the knob to separate from the shaft that goes through the clock lens. However, the shaft press fits into a small gear inside the clock mechanism. On three out of three clocks, I had to remove the shaft from the gear by pulling the knob and shaft out of the gear. I found it easier to do with the clock bezel removed and the clock mechanism removed from the white plastic housing. When it is out of the casing, you can see what you're doing so you don't break the gear. There's also a small spring inside that must go back in place correctly. Examine it before removing the shaft.
Once you make and replace the lens, the shaft simply presses back into the gear. As long as you align it right and don't force it, the gear should not crack (I had a donor clock and found this out while experimenting with it). I found that if the gear doesn't fit tight on the shaft, you can put a VERY small dot of super glue on the shaft where it connects to the gear and it holds quite well. Be careful not to glue anything else.
To replace the bezel, put it back over the face of the clock and ensure it is flat against the clock face. Then, I found that it worked best to place a smooth and soft protective cloth down on a countertop, then to roll the clock along the bezel to reshape it to its original shape and tighten it to the plastic casing. Very carefully roll the backside's edge flat to hold it to the clock. Again, be patient and be careful with it and it'll look fine. To protect the backside of the bezel, you can wrap the tip of the screwdriver with a soft cloth. It'll help protect it a bit from any further damage and makes it easier to smooth out any rough edges.
Side note: I had a donor clock I experimented with. Though the knob on that clock appeared to be threaded onto the metal shaft, I could not remove it without breaking the shaft and/or chewing up the knob. I tried threading it off (it does appear to have threads) and it wouldn't budge. I then tried pulling it off. That broke the shaft at the base of the knob. Another guy I met tried the same thing with the same results. I've only had success removing the shaft from the gear.
There may be someone else here who has a secret way of removing the knob differently.
Again, take your time and exercise caution and it should look great. If the clock lens rattles (a CD jewel case is much thinner than the original plastic), you can press the front side of the bezel inward toward the lens using your fingers. Don't use anything else. If it still is too loose or rattles, you can rub a very small spot of clear silicone along a small part of the bezel edge and wipe off any excess.
Hope that helps! Again, if anyone has a way to get the knob off without messing it up...please advise!
John G.
1979 Spider (Owned since 2000)
1971 124 Sport Spider (Owned since 2017)
1977 Spider (Sold 2017)
1979 Spider (Disposed of in 2017)
1979 Spider (Sold 2015)
1980 Spider (Sold in 2013)
1981 Spider (Sold in 1985)
2017 Spider (Owned since 2019)
1979 Spider (Owned since 2000)
1971 124 Sport Spider (Owned since 2017)
1977 Spider (Sold 2017)
1979 Spider (Disposed of in 2017)
1979 Spider (Sold 2015)
1980 Spider (Sold in 2013)
1981 Spider (Sold in 1985)
2017 Spider (Owned since 2019)
- Turbofiat124
- Posts: 183
- Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2011 5:18 am
- Your car is a: 1980 Spider 2000 turbo
- Location: Kingsport, TN
Re: Clock knob removal
Thanks for your detailed post. Looking at photos, it appears the stem goes through the bezel? The stem on my clock is at the bottom like this one so I think this is a "2000" clock.
Seems to me it would be easier to drill the hole then slot the lense with a dremel tool just enough to where the stem will slide through it. Then snap the bezel back on. Rather than taking a chance on breaking the mechanism removing the adjustment stem.
I'd really like to save this clock since it seems to keep good time.
Have you ever tried to just polish the lense without dismantling the clock? Same as those plastic headlamps? Or does the cloudiness go completely through the plastic?
Seems to me it would be easier to drill the hole then slot the lense with a dremel tool just enough to where the stem will slide through it. Then snap the bezel back on. Rather than taking a chance on breaking the mechanism removing the adjustment stem.
I'd really like to save this clock since it seems to keep good time.
Have you ever tried to just polish the lense without dismantling the clock? Same as those plastic headlamps? Or does the cloudiness go completely through the plastic?
- MrWampus
- Posts: 207
- Joined: Sat Sep 17, 2011 11:55 am
- Your car is a: 1981 Spider
- Location: Charlotte, NC
Re: Clock knob removal
This is a great post. Thanks folks. My clock lens is fogged and my adjustment knob is disconnected internally so I've been thinking about doing some clock repair. The clock itself keeps excellent time, but I had to set it by disconnecting it and waiting for the right time to reconnect it to the power. Now that I know it keeps really good time I think I should fix the adjustment stem and lens.
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1981 Spider "The Mistress"
http://s1088.photobucket.com/albums/i329/mrwampus1/
"Because a 30-year-old sports car is cheaper than a 30-year-old blonde."
1981 Spider "The Mistress"
http://s1088.photobucket.com/albums/i329/mrwampus1/
"Because a 30-year-old sports car is cheaper than a 30-year-old blonde."
- spidernut
- Posts: 1906
- Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 12:20 am
- Your car is a: 1979 Fiat Spider Automatic
- Location: Lincoln, CA
Re: Clock knob removal
This is a typical Fiat clock and the post does go through a hole in the lens....slotting the lens would be pretty easy and I doubt anyone would even notice that it was slotted. Regarding polishing out the lenses, it doesn't work....I tried it. The discoloration goes through and through. Making the lens is really easy with a Dremel. I don't think it took me more than 15 minutes.
John G.
1979 Spider (Owned since 2000)
1971 124 Sport Spider (Owned since 2017)
1977 Spider (Sold 2017)
1979 Spider (Disposed of in 2017)
1979 Spider (Sold 2015)
1980 Spider (Sold in 2013)
1981 Spider (Sold in 1985)
2017 Spider (Owned since 2019)
1979 Spider (Owned since 2000)
1971 124 Sport Spider (Owned since 2017)
1977 Spider (Sold 2017)
1979 Spider (Disposed of in 2017)
1979 Spider (Sold 2015)
1980 Spider (Sold in 2013)
1981 Spider (Sold in 1985)
2017 Spider (Owned since 2019)