Lets talk Control Arms...

[Fiat88]

Decided to wait for the alignment because I think I will replace the control arms+ front shocks first, doesn't make sense to pay twice. Still have winter Fiat driving down time anyway!

My buddy said he'll help me replace my front control arms if I wanted. All my bushings are shot on them all. So, what's the recommended way to go- New Control Arms Assemblies w/ bushings and ball joints installed already or buying everything seperate? I saw somewhere where it said that new control arms are made from thinner gauge steel, is that true and has anyone had trouble with the quality of whole assemblies?

If I went with rebuilding the old arms with new bushings and ball joints. Would new pivot bolts be recommeded and Hardware? Removing the old and new bushings have me worried but I've seen the DIY methods of installing them. Appreciate any words of wisdom and knowledge!

[So Cal Mark]

no reason to replace the pivot bolts unless they're worn or damaged. As for swapping the complete arm, I'd first inspect the old arms to determine their condition

[BEEK]

the biggest mistake most people make whan rebuilding thier front ends is overtightening the pivot bolts, this ruins the new bushings. also causes ride height issues until the bushing fail.

[DocGraphics]

I did my control arms this last fall & figured new loaded control arms only cost about $100 more than replacing everything in my existing arms, well worth the amount of labor to change everything over.

I bought my arms from Vick's & measure the thickness of the metal, originals were .125" to .140" depending on the dirt & the new ones were .125", so I'd call that the same.



Heres them intalled w/ pretty yellow springs.

[Fiat88]

Nice! I think I'll probably go with the complete assemblies.

[124ADDHE]

Good plan, it is a lot of work to strip and clean them for paint, pushing in the new bushings wasnt too bad though...i used anti-seize, thinking of the future

[Fiat88]

Good plan, it is a lot of work to strip and clean them for paint, pushing in the new bushings wasnt too bad though...i used anti-seize, thinking of the future

If I had a sand blasting set up and a place to do it, I would with rebuilding the old ones but sand papering by hand sucks.

[blurple124]

I, too am planning on restoring mine this summer. Considering they look like this now:


But I think that rather than replacing them with new ones I will just sandblast them and paint them (springs, too). I have the manuals with all of the torque specifications for re-installation, so I think I can handle it. I bought all new bushings and shocks from AR, so the only thing that will be old will be the pivot joints. Should I be concerned with them, or do they hold up pretty well?

[bobplyler]

Should I be concerned with them, or do they hold up pretty well?

The bushings are probably the weakest part of the front suspension. But the pivots are pretty strong.

[124JOE]

one of my first fixes on my car was the crossmember it had a crack that spread 3/4 inch
just last year i had a lower control arm that broke at the ft ring that holds the bushing
i was useng delrin plastic,they are a ruff ride

[DocGraphics]

heres how bad my top bushings were once I got it all apart & looks like some PO tack welded them in so replacement was a no brainer

[RRoller123]

This is probably obvious to all who have changed out the control arms, but I haven't done it yet, although I need to in the Spring; bad ball joint passenger side. I had a discussion with my local mechanic (I have no lift or heated space to work in)about the question of replacing the control arms as a complete unit or changing just the bushings over. Showed him the catalogs from the various suppliers who offer the complete units as well as the bushings. He was quite clear that it would cost me a lot less money if I bought the complete set of arms and had them installed. The savings in time would more than offset the extra cost. Here in Eastern MA I pay $75 an hour for professional mechanic time, not sure what you pay elsewhere in US/Canada/Australia, etc. but that is actually a pretty good rate for around here. Pete.

[124JOE]

with the right tool you can change your lower control arm in 2 or 3 hours
a jack and stands
an internal spring compresser
a pickle fork and hammer
and set of sockets

but then you need to do a ruff alinement

[RRoller123]

Joe, how long do you think it would take to do all 4 arms, for a first timer like me? I may consider doing it myself if I get a stretch of warm clear weather in the Spring. Jack and stands; check. Sockets; check. No coil compressor or separator tool, they would have to be bought or borrowed.

[124JOE]

you can rent a internal spring compresser from autozone 20 or 50 bucks but you get it back
i think it woud take a dayfor all, the uppers are a brezze

put car on stands lift under outter most point of the a arm
seperate the upper ball then remove the big nut for the pivot bolt then pull the bolt
and shes off

put the new one up and tighten the nut untill it sticks in the air
then loosen just untill it falls
bolt up the upper ball joint