Pillow Block

Divers · Post by **Divers** » Mon Dec 19, 2011 10:10 am

Anyone know who stocks a pillow block for an 81? Check autoricambi and bayless with no luck on their websites.

Robert

vandor · Post by **vandor** » Mon Dec 19, 2011 10:54 am

Do you mean for the driveshaft? Like this:

http://www.autoricambi.us/cgi/commerce. ... ey=DR5-448

we also have one complete with bearing:

http://www.autoricambi.us/cgi/commerce. ... ey=DR5-447

Both are in stock.

Divers · Post by **Divers** » Mon Dec 19, 2011 10:56 am

Yes...exactly...I was searching your site for "pillow block"

Divers · Post by **Divers** » Tue Dec 20, 2011 10:42 am

So...if the bearing is good, is it easy to just change the mount - looks like maybe a large c-clip needs to come off?

manoa matt · Post by **manoa matt** » Tue Dec 20, 2011 2:22 pm

There is a good deal of work involved just to remove the pillow block and bearing from the drive shaft. You first remove the universal joint, then a large nut that retains the universal joint yoke. The bearing and pillow block come off as one piece then the large C-clip is removed. You will need a large bearing separator or a shop press to press the bearing off the drive shaft. Use of a 3 jaw puller may damage the bearing as it will pull on the outer race and you want to pull/push on the inner race of the bearing.

The pillow block allows you to install the bearing from one side of the pillow block only. In essence, once you install the bearing its in there, and if you bang on the inner race to get it out you risk damaging the bearing. However, removal can be achieved without damaging the bearing. Flip the pillow block over and drill 2 holes opposite, or 3 holes spaced equidistant through the outer ring where the outer race of the bearing sits. You then can use a straight punch to drive the bearing out of the pillow block thereby saving and re-using a good bearing.

Push/pull on the inner race of the bearing to remove it from the drive shaft.
Push/pull on the outer race of the bearing to remove it from the pillow block.

Pay careful attention to how each piece is installed and oriented on the drive shaft. Its easy to install the bearing and pillow block facing the wrong way, which puts stress on the rubber pillow block leading to accelerated failure of the rubber support.

Divers · Post by **Divers** » Tue Dec 20, 2011 3:28 pm

Hmmm...

Sounds like I have 2 options.

1. Live with a good bearing but a tear in the "boot"
2. Buy a new one and bring the whole thing to a shop
The problem with #2 is that there are few "good" shops left in Orlando!

Thank you very much for your help!

manoa matt · Post by **manoa matt** » Tue Dec 20, 2011 4:31 pm

How bad is the tear? If the rubber tears all the way around, the bearing and part of the pillow block can spin with the drive shaft and create a lot of noise, vibration, and possibly dent the trans tunnel if the drive shaft oscillates to wildly.

Divers · Post by **Divers** » Tue Dec 20, 2011 4:38 pm

tear is about 1/2 inch.

digitech · Post by **digitech** » Tue Dec 20, 2011 9:50 pm

While you're there, can I ask you to take a couple of good pics showing the pillow block spacing from the trans tunnel walls? I'd like to compare to mine to see if I have mine correctly spaced. Thanks!

manoa matt · Post by **manoa matt** » Tue Dec 20, 2011 10:37 pm

Digitech, if the pillow block is reversed on the driveshaft it will not affect the position of the driveshaft, rather contort the rubber of the pillow block. However, if I recall correctly, the support bar the pillow block is mounted to is asymmetrical. If the support bar is installed backwards it will push the drive shaft to one side. The driveshaft should be pretty much centered through the trans tunnel.

Also the support bar should have rubber isolators with a steel sleeve insert at the mounting points. Without those the support bar can shift side to side before its tightened down.

digitech · Post by **digitech** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 6:37 am

That sounds like what my issue is, I didn't realize the support was asymmetrical. Thanks!

Divers · Post by **Divers** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 6:52 am

I will be working on the car thursday if you still want pictures.

baltobernie · Post by **baltobernie** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 10:42 am

At highway speeds, you should feel zero vibration with your hand on the console. I didn't know my center bearing was bad until I replaced it during a "might as well" driveline recondition. The difference was amazing. I thought the buzz was part of the charm in driving all old cars. Matt's reply indicates how few home mechanics have the ability to replace this item, so it is very likely that yours is the one that Fiat put on your car thirty+ years ago. Ditto the universal joints, which can't be properly examined in situ. The bearing and U-joints aren't expensive, and if you deliver the assembly and parts to any decent garage, they shouldn't charge you more than one hour to replace all three items. Mark with a paint pen the orientation of the front and rear shaft splines, as the shaft was balanced as a unit at the factory. Don't forget the rubber isolators Matt describes during your reassembly. Zoom, zoom!

digitech · Post by **digitech** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 10:17 pm

I'd still like to see the pics - thanks.

BEEK · Post by **BEEK** » Thu Dec 22, 2011 1:39 am

bring it to clermont, ill change the u-joint and center support, shouldnt take about 30 min

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