Heater Valve

reservoirdog · Post by **reservoirdog** » Fri Nov 23, 2007 11:59 am

Hello all - right now my heater core is bypassed because the heater valve was leaking (causing many problems with air in the system etc.). I'm going to replace the valve

Here are my questions -
-has anyone tried to replace the heater valve without taking the core out - it looks impossible to me, and
-should I take the core out anyway and have it tested or cleaned. I even thought buying a new one may be worthwhile

Thanks as always

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Fri Nov 23, 2007 3:18 pm

I always replace the valves without removing the core, you just need to bend your back in some ways it's never bent before

reservoirdog · Post by **reservoirdog** » Fri Nov 23, 2007 3:41 pm

I hear you, tools like it might be easier to take the seat out to do it.

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Fri Nov 23, 2007 3:54 pm

really it's not a problem if you raise the car on stands a couple of feet. Then you just lay over the door sill and try to work quickly

mbouse · Post by **mbouse** » Fri Nov 23, 2007 7:14 pm

yup, on your knees boy!! knees on the floor, elbows on the passenger floorbard. head under the dash....lips mouthing those oft heard Italian curse words

fork
fork
spagetti
lasagna

reservoirdog · Post by **reservoirdog** » Fri Nov 23, 2007 9:56 pm

Well - I made pretty good progress until I got to the second nut that attaches the valve to the core - the nut is up against the plastic (fan cover I guess) and I cant get a wrench or ratchet around it - is there some type of tool that can get a grip on that?

Also, the sensor wire is broken, probably has been for years - do I need that?

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Sat Nov 24, 2007 1:19 am

the new valves don't use the sensor wire, so no trouble there. As for the 2nd bolt, I use a 1/4" drive wobble extension with a 10mm socket to get to them. The core will move slightly in the case, so generally with some slight pressure you can get the socket on the nut

KillerB · Post by **KillerB** » Sat Nov 24, 2007 4:06 pm

As for special tools, I just used a good pair of vise-grips to snap the stupid plastic fin off of the fan cover. It made that upper nut alot easier to reach. One of the pipes need to be bent slightly to fit the aftermarket valve.

I did mine on a hot August day, contorted with my bum on the seat, my back supported by a folded gray military blanket (my back seat cover) and my feat straddling the headrest... oh and don't forget to wear safety glasses!

reservoirdog · Post by **reservoirdog** » Sat Nov 24, 2007 6:30 pm

Thanks to all the guidance I have successfully removed the valve. I'm going to try and post up a couple of picture later tonight, as the aftermarket replacement does not look similiar to the one I pulled out. INterestingly, the one I took out had no rubber washers in place.

Where I can use some help is getting the heater core back in the loop as I'm not sure exactly the right places to connect the hoses coming from the firewall back to the engine - there is a green hose which looks like the outlet, but I believe its the inlet.

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Sat Nov 24, 2007 8:01 pm

there is a port on the top of the cylinder head for one heater hose, the other heater hose goes to a pipe that runs along the right side of the engine under the exhaust manifold

reservoirdog · Post by **reservoirdog** » Sat Nov 24, 2007 10:04 pm

http://s217.photobucket.com/albums/cc94 ... valves.jpg

Not sure if this will work, but I'm trying to show an image of the after market valve compared to the one I removed - does it look like the standard replacement? The position of the control arm to close the valve seems different

Also, I've tried to show the bypassed core - I believe the green hose should run down to the pipe along the engine and the black to the top of the cylinder head. Does it matter which way they go?

http://s217.photobucket.com/albums/cc94 ... edcore.jpg[/img]

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Sat Nov 24, 2007 10:27 pm

that is the replacement valve. The heater will work with the hoses either way, but it would be best to have the in flow going to the heater valve

reservoirdog · Post by **reservoirdog** » Sun Nov 25, 2007 12:18 pm

Thank you very much Mark - its become clear to me that alot of the problems I've had with over heating were simply because of this heater valve and an old thermostat. This website has far more information than my mechanic, who i've totally lost faith in.

I'm going to continue a discussion thread I started in the spring to address the new water temp gauge I have now. The sending unit is wrong so the temp doesnt read properly (see mechanic above). This should get me back on track.

Thanks again

reservoirdog · Post by **reservoirdog** » Sun Nov 25, 2007 6:15 pm

after having spend 1/2 day trying to manage this valve into place, it appears that the cable is about 3/4 inch short - its not long enough to open the new valve even though the lever is in the open position - does this mean its hung up somewhere under the console?

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Sun Nov 25, 2007 9:42 pm

the cable is usually a tight fit with the new valves, you may have to re-route it but it should just be long enough