I am going to start fixing up a 1978. It run well, but needs a lot of TLC. I am going to give the engine bay a 'tune up'. Of course I'll replace: plugs, wires, cap, etc. What else do you see that raises concerns? What can I change/ eliminate, etc? What kind of carb do I have?
I am waiting for a repair manual to come in the mail, so for now I just have a general idea of what everything is..
If you can, please look closely at the pictures and give me lots of advice.
Thanks.
Opinions needed about engine setup (pics)
You've asked an awfully general question. We do not know how to respond, other than to say that we cannot determine your carburetor better than you can. Can't see it. Looks like it might be a stock Weber 32.
and, your air breather is aftermarket.
and, your window washer bottle is far from stock - why?
your horns have been moved - why?
is that paint peeling off the pass side inner fender? could be caused by the missing heat shield from the exhaust manifold, or just a poor overspray by the PO as he changed the color
but, basically....if it ain't broke, don't fix it. do your tune up and see how she runs.
and, your air breather is aftermarket.
and, your window washer bottle is far from stock - why?
your horns have been moved - why?
is that paint peeling off the pass side inner fender? could be caused by the missing heat shield from the exhaust manifold, or just a poor overspray by the PO as he changed the color
but, basically....if it ain't broke, don't fix it. do your tune up and see how she runs.
first thing I'd do is steam clean the engine and compartment! Address the oil leaks on the top of the engine that have turned the valley into a potential tarpit. Looks like most of the emission equipment has been disconnected/removed already. The O2 sensor in the manifold has been used to plug up the old egr port.
After cleaning up, assess the oil leaks and repair them. Then replace any rubber that is not fresh; hoses, belts, etc
After cleaning up, assess the oil leaks and repair them. Then replace any rubber that is not fresh; hoses, belts, etc
- manoa matt
- Posts: 3442
- Joined: Thu Oct 26, 2006 4:28 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 Fiat 124 Spider 1800
- Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Steam or power wash the engine bay, that will keep you cleaner as you work in there.
If it runs ok now then just give it a tune up and drive it for a few weeks and get use to the "feel" of things. The thing to keep in mind is do it systematically and well document anything with pictures and diagrams before you start taking multiple parts out. When you mess with several different systems at once its hard to pinpoint problems that arise.
Since the car is new to you, there are many inexpensive parts that need periodic replacement and you have no idea of their age or condition. These cheap parts should be replaced regardless (piece of mind)
The first things I would do:
1. Accelerator / throttle cable (its noticeably frayed)
2. change oil and filter
3. new fuel filter
4. New spark plug wires (currently you have two different kinds, not good)
5. Distributor cap, rotor, points, condensers
6. new spark plugs
7. Take out the air filter element, use compressed air to blow it out from the inside.
Additional things to consider:
1: Flush the cooling system and install new cooling fluid (install a "T" fitting in the heater hose above the exhaust cam box, it will help getting the air out of the system and allow you to back flush the system)
2. Replace all cooling hoses every 4 years or if condition is unknown
3. Replace all rubber hoses, (hose is cheap)
4. Replace Timing belt and tensioner and any other "V" belts.
5. Check the clutch cable and the engine ground at trans bell housing
6. Check transmission gear box oil level and condition.
7. Check differential oil level and condition.
8. Remove as much brake fluid as possible with a turkey baster and refill with new fluid and bleed, bleed, bleed.
9. Check the oil and oil level in the steering box and idler, adjust steering wheel free play. (you may want to wait till the carb needs rebuild it will be easier with the carb off)
10. Remove the flywheel/ clutch inspection plate at bottom of trans bellhousing and check the thickness of the clutch.
Other observations from pictures:
1. engine overheat sensor is disconnected (located in the valley of the cylinder head)
2. I can't tell from the picture but it looks like your exhaust ends 2 inches past the clamp?
If it runs ok now then just give it a tune up and drive it for a few weeks and get use to the "feel" of things. The thing to keep in mind is do it systematically and well document anything with pictures and diagrams before you start taking multiple parts out. When you mess with several different systems at once its hard to pinpoint problems that arise.
Since the car is new to you, there are many inexpensive parts that need periodic replacement and you have no idea of their age or condition. These cheap parts should be replaced regardless (piece of mind)
The first things I would do:
1. Accelerator / throttle cable (its noticeably frayed)
2. change oil and filter
3. new fuel filter
4. New spark plug wires (currently you have two different kinds, not good)
5. Distributor cap, rotor, points, condensers
6. new spark plugs
7. Take out the air filter element, use compressed air to blow it out from the inside.
Additional things to consider:
1: Flush the cooling system and install new cooling fluid (install a "T" fitting in the heater hose above the exhaust cam box, it will help getting the air out of the system and allow you to back flush the system)
2. Replace all cooling hoses every 4 years or if condition is unknown
3. Replace all rubber hoses, (hose is cheap)
4. Replace Timing belt and tensioner and any other "V" belts.
5. Check the clutch cable and the engine ground at trans bell housing
6. Check transmission gear box oil level and condition.
7. Check differential oil level and condition.
8. Remove as much brake fluid as possible with a turkey baster and refill with new fluid and bleed, bleed, bleed.
9. Check the oil and oil level in the steering box and idler, adjust steering wheel free play. (you may want to wait till the carb needs rebuild it will be easier with the carb off)
10. Remove the flywheel/ clutch inspection plate at bottom of trans bellhousing and check the thickness of the clutch.
Other observations from pictures:
1. engine overheat sensor is disconnected (located in the valley of the cylinder head)
2. I can't tell from the picture but it looks like your exhaust ends 2 inches past the clamp?
- manoa matt
- Posts: 3442
- Joined: Thu Oct 26, 2006 4:28 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 Fiat 124 Spider 1800
- Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Its hard to tell if that is the stock carb. The water activated choke is not hooked up, there is no visible idle solenoid cutoff, and there should be more emissions hoses coming off it.
The intake manifold is not like my 78 1800. It looks like an earlier year manifold. (more restrictive)
Also have a good fiat mechanic adjust the valve clearances.
It looks liker there have been a lot of mods, some good and some bad.
Matt
The intake manifold is not like my 78 1800. It looks like an earlier year manifold. (more restrictive)
Also have a good fiat mechanic adjust the valve clearances.
It looks liker there have been a lot of mods, some good and some bad.
Matt
I can see a number of wire splices in your pictures. I would recommend getting a good wiring diagram and going through everything making sure they work. You may be able to isolate some problems that way and figure out why things were bypassed or rewired. The most common reason is a bad ground, always worth checking.