Yep, you known the rest of the story already. That '73 Spider in Sacramento has bad lien sale paperwork, so looks like bye-bye my $200 deposit. At least I knew enough to only leave $200 but clearly was smart enough to not loose the $200.
I may get the deposit back, but probably not. Lesson learned.
As a FYI if there are ANY errors on a California Lien Sale document the whole thing has to be redone, which means it has to be advertised again and anyone can bid on it. That means if you buy it and then realize the paperwork is wrong you could be in the position to have to bid to buy the car you already paid for. No thanks.
The way I figure it the $200 is the cost of the education I got on the lien sale process. Oh well.
I am VERY appreciative of all the help you guys offered up right away, what a great community!
I'm hooked, so will keep looking.
Thanks again,
Tom
Too good to be true usually....
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tdskip
- Posts: 276
- Joined: Wed May 25, 2011 2:48 pm
- Your car is a: 1968 Spider
- Location: SoCal
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RoyBatty
- Posts: 852
- Joined: Sat Aug 28, 2010 11:44 pm
- Your car is a: 1975 124 Spider - 1971 124 Sport Coupe
- Location: Locust Grove, VA
Re: Too good to be true usually....
Look at this one.
I spoke to the guy that has it. His name is Tony.
It sounds promising.
Oh and, disregard the picture that ain't the car. He said that was an accident and it shouldn't have been posted. It's a window in their house masked off with tape.
http://goldcountry.craigslist.org/cto/2383119121.html
I spoke to the guy that has it. His name is Tony.
It sounds promising.
Oh and, disregard the picture that ain't the car. He said that was an accident and it shouldn't have been posted. It's a window in their house masked off with tape.
http://goldcountry.craigslist.org/cto/2383119121.html
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spidernut
- Posts: 1906
- Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 12:20 am
- Your car is a: 1979 Fiat Spider Automatic
- Location: Lincoln, CA
Re: Too good to be true usually....
How much were you looking at spending on a Spider?
John G.
1979 Spider (Owned since 2000)
1971 124 Sport Spider (Owned since 2017)
1977 Spider (Sold 2017)
1979 Spider (Disposed of in 2017)
1979 Spider (Sold 2015)
1980 Spider (Sold in 2013)
1981 Spider (Sold in 1985)
2017 Spider (Owned since 2019)
1979 Spider (Owned since 2000)
1971 124 Sport Spider (Owned since 2017)
1977 Spider (Sold 2017)
1979 Spider (Disposed of in 2017)
1979 Spider (Sold 2015)
1980 Spider (Sold in 2013)
1981 Spider (Sold in 1985)
2017 Spider (Owned since 2019)
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tdskip
- Posts: 276
- Joined: Wed May 25, 2011 2:48 pm
- Your car is a: 1968 Spider
- Location: SoCal
Re: Too good to be true usually....
Hi John - hard to say on price. It doesn't seem like the market understands just how cool these 124s are, so even good cars seem to trade under $4k, some less than that even. She needs to be a pre-SMOG car to qualify for the vintage touring events I like to do, and I'd like to stay away from cars with unique trim/unobtainium bits like the 1969(?).spidernut wrote:How much were you looking at spending on a Spider?
I am VERY open for coaching here, so please do take me to school!
Thanks
Tom
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Sunracer
Re: Too good to be true usually....
Look for a 71 or 72, has the 1608 engine which is one of the best designs, very free revving and great to drive, still has the original early chrome bumpers close to the body without the bumper shocks, and nice and light weight.
Later cars had the 1592, which is similar but had a much less favorable bore and stroke combo. The 70 and earlier cars had the 1438, a nice little motor but it is not very powerful if there is any kind of hill on your route.
Pair it with a later model electronic ignition and you will have a sweet, light on its feet little ride. Go with hydraulic shocks, Koni's are the best but $$$. The KYB gas shocks many use don't maintain the great original factory handling.
The one downside to the 71's are the taillights which were used for only a couple years, but you can find spares and many cars have had the 74 and later lights retrofitted, they are a fraction narrower but you can easily hide the gap with some extra gasket materiel, 3M window weld works well.
Put it on a set of light weight CD-3 factory option magensium wheels (like the one on craigslist with the small hubcaps) to keep the unsprung weight low and you will love it and have a great looking classic.
PB : )
Later cars had the 1592, which is similar but had a much less favorable bore and stroke combo. The 70 and earlier cars had the 1438, a nice little motor but it is not very powerful if there is any kind of hill on your route.
Pair it with a later model electronic ignition and you will have a sweet, light on its feet little ride. Go with hydraulic shocks, Koni's are the best but $$$. The KYB gas shocks many use don't maintain the great original factory handling.
The one downside to the 71's are the taillights which were used for only a couple years, but you can find spares and many cars have had the 74 and later lights retrofitted, they are a fraction narrower but you can easily hide the gap with some extra gasket materiel, 3M window weld works well.
Put it on a set of light weight CD-3 factory option magensium wheels (like the one on craigslist with the small hubcaps) to keep the unsprung weight low and you will love it and have a great looking classic.
PB : )