Replacing my idler arm

[NWAspider]

So I finally found someone who has them, tomorrow I'm going to change it. So here is what I'm thinking, remove the two bolts that are in the frame, (attached to where the metal snapped off). Then remove the bottom bolt of the idler arm. lastly re-attach new one. Am I missing anything. This looks to easy to be true.

[kmead]

If you don't have one already you will likely want to pick up a tie rod separator so you don't damage your good steering parts. Do not use a pickle fork. Use one like this:

http://www.toolsource.com/ball-joint-li ... 94669.html

I always do this:
Alternatively, you can use two hammers of nearly the same weight, hitting the side of the idler arm mount for each tie rod end diametrically opposite from each other. Simply take two hammers, and hit the spindle (NOT the tie rod!) with them both simultaneously right where the tie rod passes through (at a right angle to the tie rod stem). Cast iron has a surprising amount of deflection, and these simulataneous impacts distort the spindle opening just enough to break the corrosion bond and the tie rod end usually drops right out with only a few coordinated hits.

[NWAspider]

Thanks as always for all the help. As always I need it. I've been watching some videos and reading about using the ball joint tool you recommended. The problem is that I didn't get a new "arm" that attaches to my ball joints. Here is the new part I ordered. Do I need to remove the arm from the ball joints and install the whole system again. Or can I just replace the pictured part and call it a day?

[azruss]

if you can separate the arm from the dampener without pulling the tie rods you may save yourself a lot of grief. may need a bearing puller to get the arm off. it will just depend on how much room you have to work with.

[kmead]

if you can separate the arm from the dampener without pulling the tie rods you may save yourself a lot of grief. may need a bearing puller to get the arm off. it will just depend on how much room you have to work with.

What he said.

If you can get the Pitman arm off the old idler without removing the balljoints it will be much easier. Getting the pitman arm off on some of these is often the bigger more difficult problem.

[NWAspider]

I got the pitman arm off, now I have a few questions. The new part has bolts at each end. One I know holds the arm on, no problem. The other one didn't exist on my old part. Should I just tighten in down? Question may be silly but I find when I don't ask I'm more likely to make a mistake. second question. I can't seem to get the teeth to line up, and go into the arm. The two cog looks about the same size as the old one. Does it need some lubricant? or just some tlc getting the teeth to mesh correctly? I have to go buy new bolds because the old ones are now too short. Giving it another go this afternoon. Wish me luck, and as always thank you so much for the help.

[kmead]

How easy is it to get the idler to start onto the old splines? have you counted the splines?

Yes the nut should be tight on the side opposing the arm

[NWAspider]

They both have 33, and the old one slips in and out fairly easily. I noticed that the old one has very pointed tines, and the new one has flat broader ones.

[NWAspider]

Thanks for the help everybody. Fiat fun had to send me a new arm to go with my new idler. Then the tie rod arm was damaged and I had to replace it. Fun times. Thanks again for the advice. Now if only I could get it started again.