Advice sought on brake rehab

[Schnauzer]

Doing the typical brake rehab on my 76 Spider. When flushing out the old brake fluid is some cleaner solvent used or just fresh brake fluid? I am going with a new master cylinder, rebuild kits at the calipers, and hoses.

Thanks for the help.

Jim

[baltobernie]

I'd empty the reservoirs and fill each with isopropol alcohol. Bleed until clear, then do the disassembly of all the bits you mentioned. Any remaining IPA in the hard lines will evaporate while you're doing the rebuild of the calipers.

Are you going to R&R the rear compensator?

[Schnauzer]

I will either eliminate or R&R the compensator. Thanks for the tip on using alcohol

[Schnauzer]

Baltobernie...I appreciate your reminder re the compensator. I pulled mine out to check its function. Lock up tighter than Fort Knox. Thanks.

[DocGraphics]

Hey schnauzer, I'm out here in Hayden, just picked up a 78.

I see your working on the braking system, I have a Motive Power Bleeder that I bought for my Courier which should fit our Spiders (I'll have to check to be sure, its the european round adapter).

Maybe we can get together & I can help ya & check out each others spiders.

[majicwrench]

Not sure what flushing with alchohol is gonna do, I really don't see the point. Flush with brake fluid IMHO.

You CDA guys, I'm over in Libby, gonna have to do a road trip someday...

[kmead]

I agree, flush it with new, clean fluid until it runs clear. No need for the alcohol should perchance it not evaporate out of a low spot. Not to mention all the lines full of air that has to be purged in any event.

[DocGraphics]

majicwrench, I was already thinking that, been to Libby before that would make a great day trip! Maybe latter in the summer when things are all sorted out.

What-cha think schnauzer?

The Power Bleeder is perfect for flushing the brake lines all the way, it is a pressurized reservior made for doing that too.
I'll have to see how it fits on mine. Are the M/C caps all the same size?

[pooldoctorstl]

Very common to have a locked up compensator. If you work on it, make sure you adjust it properly and jack the car by the rear axle or the rear calipers won't bleed. You could eliminate it but I wouldn't. Rear brake lockup in a hard stop, especially in the rain, is not fun. Check your metal brake lines and hoses, too. My 82 with almost no rust had brake lines that fell apart when I started pulling on them to check their condition. I can't believe they held pressure.

Good luck and have fun,

Jeff

[baltobernie]

IPA is a lot cheaper than brake fluid, and has good cleaning properties without destroying rubber seals. If the old fluid does not contain particulates, you can certainly omit the flush. Since you're replacing all the rubber lines, you could give each hard line a shot of compressed air after disconnecting it from the M/C. I suggested the flush not knowing the age or condition of the existing fluid. It doesn't take much crud to ruin the seals and efforts of a new brake system.

[azygoustoyou]

I'd use stainless braided brake lines. I didn't see you mention them. Mark sells a braided compensator bypass line also is your going to remove the compensator. If you're going to lower your car, the compensator won't work anyways.

[leftfield6]

I'd use stainless braided brake lines. I didn't see you mention them. Mark sells a braided compensator bypass line also is your going to remove the compensator. If you're going to lower your car, the compensator won't work anyways.

Hmm, this I did not know! Makes sense though, given how the compensator works. I do plan on going with either IAP or Vicks springs, so I may get the bypass line. Glad I saw this!

[kmead]

Unless you lower it a lot the compensator can still be adjusted to work.