Disaster!

[dzyfngrs]

...Just as the nice weather was coming in and the car was purring...



...disaster struck only 1/2 a mile from my house last week. Now, I've replaced my rear end differential before but this looks to be a different beast altogether. Need I replace the cross member? If so, how?

Jaime (Wachuko) tells me he has an '83 crossmember (bless his heart) but I'm wondering if fixing it by welding would be better? Stronger? Would an '83 crossmember work / fit?

Here's a picture of the passenger side for those of you who want to see what unbroken (albeit oily) looks like:



I'm open to ideas / suggestions / gifts of alcohol. In the meantime, I'll be in my room in a fetal position, crying.

Thanks.

[lanciahf]

I hope you were okay when the crossmember let go?

Is your car a Spider 2000? 1979 to 1984? If yes then Jaime' 83 cross-member will work. If your car is a 1800 then I think you have to remove the 1/4 spacer on the 2000 cross-member in order for it to fit but I'm not sure.

[bradartigue]

Use an unmolested crossmember e.g. no welds if you can help it.

Looking at your photos do yourself a favor and swap the suspension rubber all around on the A-Arms when you do the x-member, and change the motor mounts. It's all got to get unscrewed anyway, might as well make it nice and tight.

[spiderrey]

Its not really that bad. Just needs another xmember. And its the best time to rebuild tha whole suspension. Just be glad you and the car werent seriously hurt.

[azruss]

looks like someone already did a repair job on that side already

[dzyfngrs]

Yup. A 1979 Spider 2000. Replacing the cross member it is. Hoorah. Fun.

[v6spider]

Unfortunately this is a common problem. If you replace it with a used one check it thoroughly for cracks. Welding the seams will strengthen it and the spot where yours broke is a weak point.

Rob

[vandor]

When you replace the crossmember you will have to support the engine. I usually put a jackstand under the bellhousing.
You can also make something that holds it from above, or use an engine hoist (one without leaky seals, hopefully).
Once you get a new crossmember I would seamweld it and box in the area that broke. Basically make a square piece of steel that fits in that open area and weld it in there. It will make it much stronger.
Good luck,

[azygoustoyou]

Hi all, Not trying to hijack this thread.
Since we're talking crossmembers here. I welded mine like some of you are suggesting. I then was told by someone that it would be better to leave the seams along where the horizontal bolt goes through alone that it would put stress on the frame.
I don't know so I'm asking what you all think. I did the an internal fix on my frame removing the rusted bolts that just turned. I don't want to add more stress by making a mistake.

[wachuko]

Let the work begin...





There is always time for an espresso break...





Support under transmission...



Cross memeber out, Frank working on removing/installing engine mounts





Replacement ready to go in



Replacement cross member installed, new engine mounts in place

[wachuko]

A few comments and questions...

We had to install two new bolts in the replacement cross member. Welded those in place. I wish I had seen the thread before as I did not weld a plate or boxed the area as it is suggested

How do you guys make it easier to mount the springs and the lower control arm back in place??? The passenger side was a major PITA!! to install back.

Driver side is on hold due to a bad shock. Frank order a new set of shocks. But we need to find an easy way to install this all back...

[narfire]

Jamie, I found compressing the springs a pita as well. The next time I had to muck with the a arms ect. I loaded up the springs while in the car and then used some aircraft lock wire each side to try and keep the shorter length. That worked ok for me. This past week I installed the front suspension back in the 72 and actually used my forklift to compress the springs then wired with lockwire again. I'm going to have to invest in a proper spring compressor that goes up the inside of the spring.
Chris

oh yea...nice to see you back

[wachuko]

Jaime, I found compressing the springs a pita as well. The next time I had to muck with the a arms ect. I loaded up the springs while in the car and then used some aircraft lock wire each side to try and keep the shorter length. That worked ok for me. This past week I installed the front suspension back in the 72 and actually used my forklift to compress the springs then wired with lockwire again. I'm going to have to invest in a proper spring compressor that goes up the inside of the spring.
Chris

oh yea...nice to see you back

Thank you!

We tried spring compressors but the ones I have get in the way when installing the spring back... so that is useless.



Right now we got the spring a little bit compress with some rachet straps (tie downs). We also tried with a jack but the pressure from the spring would push the whole assembly out... scary...

Can you share a bit more information on the lock wire you used, easy to find?

[CajunMike]

Jaime the last time I had to remove the springs we jacked up another car (grandpas 69 impala) put the coil under the frame somewhere and just slowly lowered the car to compress them. We used heavy gauge copper wire to bind them.

As a side this happened to me also as I pulled into a parking spot fortunately. We had a local welder fix it and off we went. Last I heard Jason over at millers mule was working on fabricating some x members tentatively to be released february, but i havent seen any on his site. I think reinforced welding on the original is a good alternative.

[azygoustoyou]

I used the spring compressor on the fiat. I can't remember if the one you tried was the same style. I tried using one on my toyota and it just wouldn't fit. I did the same and compressed the spring and used some chain off my hoist to hold them while I replace the strut.