Speedometer Cable
-
- Posts: 100
- Joined: Thu Mar 02, 2006 12:39 am
- Location: Irvine, CA
Speedometer Cable
Howdy,
My speedometer needle on the gauge was bouncing around at low speeds under 40 MPH. Above that, it was working fine. Now, it doesn't work at all. I assume I have to replace the cable.
What are the steps for replacement?
From where to purchase the cable, do people prefer Vick's or IAP?
Thanks,
Clint
My speedometer needle on the gauge was bouncing around at low speeds under 40 MPH. Above that, it was working fine. Now, it doesn't work at all. I assume I have to replace the cable.
What are the steps for replacement?
From where to purchase the cable, do people prefer Vick's or IAP?
Thanks,
Clint
- manoa matt
- Posts: 3442
- Joined: Thu Oct 26, 2006 4:28 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 Fiat 124 Spider 1800
- Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
speedo cable
Check the connection at the transmission, it mat be loose there. Also check the engine ground wire.
Matt
Matt
-
- Posts: 5754
- Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2006 5:49 am
- Your car is a: 1972 Fiat 124 Sport
- Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Clint,
More than one issue has been brought to light here, so some of this is directed to the readers, and some to you.
1. Any spider owner should add a second ground wire from the engine block to the inner fender well, or other body surface. This is due to the relatively high percentage rate of failure of the factory ground wire between the undercarriage and the transmission housing. if this original cable fails and there is no second cable, your car will more than likely decide to use your clutch cable for a ground wire, causing failure in your shifting abilities.
2. Erratic behavior of a speedo needle followed by zero speedo & odometer functions clearly indicates a broken speedo cable, or at least a disconnected end. If you have a newer (78+) vehicle this could mean that the plastic connector at the meter has fallen off the speedo.
3. Yes, new cables can be obtained from those sources you listed, for under $30.00.
been thru the speedo cable thing myself this year, and have some advice to share if you are unfortunate enough to have those white plastic fixtures rather than the screw on end. GRrrrr...if you cannot get that white plastic end to hold to the back of the speedo, try putting a hose clamp over the plastic fitting after you've connected it to the meter.
always be sure that you have removed the broken cable tip from the speedo before attempting to install the new cable.
More than one issue has been brought to light here, so some of this is directed to the readers, and some to you.
1. Any spider owner should add a second ground wire from the engine block to the inner fender well, or other body surface. This is due to the relatively high percentage rate of failure of the factory ground wire between the undercarriage and the transmission housing. if this original cable fails and there is no second cable, your car will more than likely decide to use your clutch cable for a ground wire, causing failure in your shifting abilities.
2. Erratic behavior of a speedo needle followed by zero speedo & odometer functions clearly indicates a broken speedo cable, or at least a disconnected end. If you have a newer (78+) vehicle this could mean that the plastic connector at the meter has fallen off the speedo.
3. Yes, new cables can be obtained from those sources you listed, for under $30.00.
been thru the speedo cable thing myself this year, and have some advice to share if you are unfortunate enough to have those white plastic fixtures rather than the screw on end. GRrrrr...if you cannot get that white plastic end to hold to the back of the speedo, try putting a hose clamp over the plastic fitting after you've connected it to the meter.
always be sure that you have removed the broken cable tip from the speedo before attempting to install the new cable.
-
- Posts: 100
- Joined: Thu Mar 02, 2006 12:39 am
- Location: Irvine, CA
I finally got a chance to look at the speedo. The connection at the trans is secure and the ground looks fine.
My question is how do I remove the connection from the gauge in the engine compartment? There's not much room in my 82'. Do I have to remove the brake fluid tank to get to it? Once there, do I just unscrew it like the connection at the trans?
Thanks,
Clint
My question is how do I remove the connection from the gauge in the engine compartment? There's not much room in my 82'. Do I have to remove the brake fluid tank to get to it? Once there, do I just unscrew it like the connection at the trans?
Thanks,
Clint
if the '82 is the same as my '80 (and prior) then to get to the connection at the back of the gauge, you need to remove the four thumb screws holding the dash board to the dash. then carefully pull the dash board forward.
that is, of course, after you drop the front half of the steering column.
then, there should be a white assembly that holds the cable to the back of the gauge. it is a two part assembly, pull the ring away from the gauge. you'll see that the other half has little fingers that grip the grooves on the gauge fitting.
my catalogue says that the same cable is used for your car as mine....so this should work.
yes, if you need to remove the sheath, you have better luck moving the master cylinder reservoir out of the way.
However, if the sheath is ok and it is just the cable tip that has been broken (typically the case), then you do not need to remove the sheath to fix the problem.
1. getta new cable assembly
2. disconnect the old assembly at each end
3. remove the inner cable through the dash side of the sheath.
4. remove any broken cable tips
5. slide in the replacement inner cable into your old sheath from the dash side
6. fit the cable into the tranny, then screw on the connector
7. fit in the cable to the gauge, then clip on the connector
8. reassemble the dash and hope that the clip on connector does not pop off
9. putcher steering column back in place
some people swear by white litheum grease on the inner cable. if you choose to do this, make sure you get no grease near the gauge
i found that the white clips love to pop off the speedo because it thinks you are bored with life, and needa project. i rectified this problem by adding a hose clamp to the outside of the white clip.
that is, of course, after you drop the front half of the steering column.
then, there should be a white assembly that holds the cable to the back of the gauge. it is a two part assembly, pull the ring away from the gauge. you'll see that the other half has little fingers that grip the grooves on the gauge fitting.
my catalogue says that the same cable is used for your car as mine....so this should work.
yes, if you need to remove the sheath, you have better luck moving the master cylinder reservoir out of the way.
However, if the sheath is ok and it is just the cable tip that has been broken (typically the case), then you do not need to remove the sheath to fix the problem.
1. getta new cable assembly
2. disconnect the old assembly at each end
3. remove the inner cable through the dash side of the sheath.
4. remove any broken cable tips
5. slide in the replacement inner cable into your old sheath from the dash side
6. fit the cable into the tranny, then screw on the connector
7. fit in the cable to the gauge, then clip on the connector
8. reassemble the dash and hope that the clip on connector does not pop off
9. putcher steering column back in place
some people swear by white litheum grease on the inner cable. if you choose to do this, make sure you get no grease near the gauge
i found that the white clips love to pop off the speedo because it thinks you are bored with life, and needa project. i rectified this problem by adding a hose clamp to the outside of the white clip.
Mark,
Not the master cylinder itself.
Some of us have fat fingers and hands, and cannot manuever around the plastic m/c reservoir. it is easier for us less dexterious to move that reservoir while threading the cable through the firewall.
I for one, cannot see well enough to get that grommet back into the hole while the reservoir is in the way.
Not the master cylinder itself.
Some of us have fat fingers and hands, and cannot manuever around the plastic m/c reservoir. it is easier for us less dexterious to move that reservoir while threading the cable through the firewall.
I for one, cannot see well enough to get that grommet back into the hole while the reservoir is in the way.
- bran100
- Posts: 155
- Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2007 12:34 am
- Your car is a: 1982 Spider
- Location: Draper, Utah
I can personally attest how easy it is to remove the speedo cable from the back of the gauge. Any 16 year old kid can do it while their parents are out of town.
Brandon
Lots of pics: https://www.adoberevel.com/shares/cc771 ... 197cf3ce11
Lots of pics: https://www.adoberevel.com/shares/cc771 ... 197cf3ce11
-
- Posts: 100
- Joined: Thu Mar 02, 2006 12:39 am
- Location: Irvine, CA
I finally got around to replacing the cable. I feel 16 again. Thanks, Mike and all.
I had trouble lowering the steering column. I couldn't loosen the lower round bolts. I didn't know how. So, I removed the steering wheel instead.
After the speedo replacement, I started the car and my windshield motor started working again. Mike, you may recall, I removed the wiper arms and replaced them with your caps. Well, the caps started moving. I must have reconnected loose wires to the wipers.
Funny how things work out.
I had trouble lowering the steering column. I couldn't loosen the lower round bolts. I didn't know how. So, I removed the steering wheel instead.
After the speedo replacement, I started the car and my windshield motor started working again. Mike, you may recall, I removed the wiper arms and replaced them with your caps. Well, the caps started moving. I must have reconnected loose wires to the wipers.
Funny how things work out.
yes, i remember the caps. I now have more available if anyone else wants to remove their wiper arms and cover the studs with black plastic caps.
so you could not remove the two 13mm hex head bolts located right underneath the dash board? no need to remove the bolts at the bottom end of the steering column (by your feet). Just the top two. that should allow the column and wheel to drop far enough to get out of the way.
so you could not remove the two 13mm hex head bolts located right underneath the dash board? no need to remove the bolts at the bottom end of the steering column (by your feet). Just the top two. that should allow the column and wheel to drop far enough to get out of the way.